#5 3D Scanning and Printing

This week I learned how to design, scan and print for 3d object.

Assignment

Group assignment

Individual assignment

  1. Design and 3D print an object (small, few cm3, limited by printer time) that could not be easily made subtractively
  2. 3D scan an object (and optionally print it)

Outcomes

What did I do this week: 1. Group Assignment

The group assignment page - week05

Test the design rules for your 3D printer(s)

To test the printer, we printed two pieces of data below:
All In One 3D Printer test 2.0
clearance test data in the class page: FCStd jpg stl

When printing, you will need to set the following items:
(It was a bit confused point that the differences between Brim, Raft, and Skirt. So, an explanation of each item are written in the notes section below)

Item Value Note
Infill 15％ On the test model page(All In One 3D Printer test 2.0 by Zipolla - Thingiverse), it said to test with infill: 100, but for general printing, set infill: 15~20, and test in the same environment as my normal printing is needed, so we tested with the value
Infill pattern Grid I later learned that Gyro is better. Grid patterns tend to accumulate dirt at the intersections. It is necessary to choose the appropriate infill shape depending on the shape of the model.
(So I used Gyro for my personal assignment. )
Skirt 2 Creates a frame around : Used to prevent filament stains that appeared at the beginning
Brim None Can be surrounded : Used to strengthen and stabilize the adhesion of the edges of the part
Raft 0 Creates a base : Used as a base when the surface to be placed on is small
Support None For parts other than test model, it is important to set the support according to the shape.
Speed Default Anycubic: 230
Creality Print/Bambu: 60 for the first layer, 300 for inner and 200 for outer for the following layers
You can print beautifully with the default settings. You can adjust it to speed up depending on the model, but more than 300 is not recommended.
The above is for PLA. PET-G will adhere better if it is a little slower.
Travel 500 Normal moving speed for areas other than the printing area.
Layer Hight 0.2 0.2-0.28mm is common, 6-70% of the head size is optimal
Wall 2 How many walls will be made inside the structure

*Regarding temperature:
PLA melts at the lowest temperature: 190-210°
High-speed printers need to set the temperature higher. (If it goes too fast, it won't melt.)
*To prevent oils from your hands from staining the printer bed, wipe it with alcohol or similar after use.
We all shared the printing results and recorded them. For details, please see the group page: The group assignment page - week05

What did I do this week: 2. Individual assignment

Design and 3D print an object (small, few cm3, limited by printer time) that could not be easily made subtractively

Research and Design

First, I looked at ideas on Pinterest to see what kinds of additive design are possible. As I looked, I came up with two ideas.
One was to add a mantle to the globe I had made before in week 2, to create an expression that could only be achieved with additive design. The other was to create something that looked like soft cloth. (I was interested in the T-shirt prints descried in class.)
I thought that an output that was closer to the final assignment would be better to think about it, so I decided to make a globe with additive design.
I was able to get a variety of design ideas during the local session, so I decided to add Gyro to make it more "globe-like." I was also interested in Voronoi Lattice, which is also introduced in the session, and since it seemed like a good way to express the mantle, I decided to give it a try.

Why it could not be easily made subtractively?

Gyro: printed with nested parts as assembled state. The parts are formed in a combined state is a characteristic of additive design. In additive design, a gyro can only be made by combining separate parts.
Mantle inside the globe: Additive design allows us to create the globe while the framework is still assembled. Also, the Globe (skeleton) are printed with a mantle inside. With subtractive design, it is difficult to carve the inside out from a single piece of material.

1. Voronoi Lattice Trial

In the Local Session, I learned that the Voronoi Lattice can be made by the following steps from Rico-san. I decided to follow that and create a round pattern like a mantle.

  1. solid geometry
  2. modifier 1: decimate
  3. modifier 2: wire frame
  4. modifier 3: subdivision surface

Add Icosphere > add modifier

Add decimate

Add Wireframe

Add subdivision surface

Adjust some parameters and make it looks nice.

2. Modify Globe to print it
I made the globe model in week 2. This time, I modified it to make it suitable for additive design.
It was sooooooo much tough to take all of ocean part.
After take all ocean parts, try to make the all islands connected.
Add UV Sphere and Scale it to fit to make latitude and longitude.
Add Wireframe Modifier, and make it thicker.
It seems too much lines... so unsubdivide it 2 to make the number of lines half. Also, make it smoother.
To print the land part, need to add thickness. Add Solidify Modifier.

3. Add mantle inside
Add Icosphere, and made Voronoi pattern with the steps I wrote above.

4.Export the data as stl

Display only necessary parts, and export the data as stl.

5．Make a Gyro(Fusion)

At first I tried to use the hole function to create a connection part for the two rings, but I had trouble drilling a hole in the curved part. The following was created while learning from Sophia, who work as FabLab Nomad.

★The key is to have everything start from the center.
If you do that, you can make it symmetrical by setting Extrude to Symmetric or selecting a face with Mirror.
First I drew a design for the necessary parts and set the parameters as follows.

Create a Globe part to put Blender data into later.
Press C = create circle
Press L = draw a line
Create > Revolve. Select a semicircle for Profile and a line for Axis. Set Angle to 360 degrees. The circle will then become a sphere.

Make inner ring.

Create Sketch > Sketch Palette > Check “Slice”.

Press P = project. Uncheck Projection Link


Select Offset, and set the offset with the parameter.


Add parameter for Extrude.

Press E = extrude
Create sketch, and do the same for outer ring.

Make connection parts.
Create Sketch, and Press P for project.
Choose Arc > 3-Point Arc, draw line for outside line, then choose Line and connect it.
Then, revolve it. Choose the drawn figure for profile, and select center line(also drawn this time) for Axis.
Choose Mirror, and select object you want to mirror, and choose xz face as Mirror Place.
Do the same for outer ring connection parts.
Combine the ring and connection parts.
Then add hole for rotate.
To make a sketch for hole, we need a plane. This time, we choose flat surface on the edge of the connection parts and create sketch.
Press C to create circle, and extrude it, and make cylinder.
Then, choose “combine” . Choose ring as Target Body and choose the cylinders as Tool Bodies. Choose “cut” for Operation. The hole made.
Part of the joint is stuck. Made that part thinner.
If you want to adjust the shape, go back to sketch step, and choose the line you want to change and move it. Then go back to the current step.
Do the same for inner ring.
I’ve learned a lot from Sophia…

Convert the globe file and ring parts.
Inset Mesh and choose the globe file.
It seems its too big, so “move” and “scale” it from modify menu.
Make a cutout to make the ring stable.
Make rectangle, and extrude it.
The size is strange, so I tried again with the settings below.
It seems too thin. Make it thicker.

Section Analysis
I also learned how to check the inside of junction parts, You can use section analysis.
You can check the cross-sectional structure. ① Select the surface you want to cut, and ② adjust the position you want to cut.

Then, I export the file as stl.


1st print trial

I open the stl file from slicer.
It seems there are too many support if I print it at once…So I decide to print them(Globe and ring) separately.

Modify the junction parts shorter and make it separatable.
Then, put the parts separately.

However, finally, I printed them one by one as different file. It is because structures affect each other when they printed out. (Recommended by Yamamoto-san.)

Export the data separately as stl. (Display only the parts I need and export)

For ring parts, open in slicer and set the infill pattern as gyro, and otherwise print it with default settings.

For globe part, I have to change support settings, otherwise it might be impossible to take support parts.
Choose support menu from the top tool bar. Use select tool, and select the face I need the support.
I’ve learned it is enough to support only the bottom part of the sphere.
I also used the “tree” support, which is easier to take away.

After finish support setting, slice the data. As you can see, there is support only at the bottom. Then, start print.
Printing…
1st print trial result:
Ring parts: seems ok, and it moves!
Globe parts: Outside looks nice, but, Inside is spaghetti…

2nd and subsequent Print trials
It seems the mantle part’s thickness is too thin. Make the inside thicker.
Thickness 0.063mm→0.2mm
Save as stl file and put it in the Fusion.
Move back to the original place to adjust junction parts.
Insert new globe file and make it fit to the place.
Then, adjust support settings, and start printing again.
However, before I knew it, the inside part had been blown away…
I was advised that the printing speed may be too fast, so I adjusted the printing speed.
Unfortunately, it popped out again, so instead of leaving the inner parts floating in the air, I decided to stick them underneath.
Finally, it printed out successfully.
I joint it to the ring parts.

The data is here.


3D scan an object (and optionally print it)

For scanning, we used Revopoint.
First, we take the sample figure as a trial.
Turn on, and press record button, and the scanning starts.
After scannnig, you can edit the model with “1-tap editing”function.
After that, we tried scan each other.
After scanning, if you connect to the pc, you can transfer the data to the pc.
To do so, you have to install “Revo scan” software.
Then, choose File transfer, and press ok.
You can use “1-tap editing ”function from the pc also.
If you export the data as a mesh model, you can also edit them in other software. So I tried to export the data as stl.
Now you can open the data in Fusion or Blender or other 3D modeling software.
*You can also export file as ply from “Revo scan”.
You can edit ply format with the software like: MeshLab(for free), Meshmixer(Autodesk), etc.

scaniverse
I also tryied scaniverse. I tried 3 times to scan a chair to look nice. You can also export the data as obj file.

Outcomes

Data for 3D print
*"Globe with gyro" data made in Fusion is too much heavy(40MB) and impossible to put it in repo, so I upload the data separately.

I could try some 3D printers, and 3D scanners. It was first time for me to print the object with complex shape. Also it was first time for me to use many kinds of 3D printers. I was impressed that the new printers can print even intricate shapes quickly and clearly. Also, I realized the importance of appropriate design suitable for characteristics of the printers from retries.
*This page uses Google Translate to translate some sentences.

Assignment

Group assignment

Individual assignment

  1. Design and 3D print an object (small, few cm3, limited by printer time) that could not be easily made subtractively
  2. 3D scan an object (and optionally print it)

Outcomes

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