Consists of the manufacture and realization of an ELECTRONIC Fab-DRUM KIT, I show you in the articles my design of this drum, below so you can see my process.

Note: At the end of the page, I will leave all the files to download, in case you want to make or modify it. Enjoy it.


For my final project I decide to built a Electronic Drum Kit because I was a drummer in high school, but I had to stop playing it because I was already starting university and also that it took up a lot of space and also that I didn't have time to play it, finally I had to give it to a friend who was interested in learning to play drums.


With this project, I will help people acquire a good Electronic Drum Kit at a low cost and without taking up much space.
The best thing is that drummers who want to make their own drums can use my project as a starting point and can modify this electronic drum kit to their liking or improve it to make it cooler.


For my project I decided use three manufacturing means:

Regards, Luis Tolentino





In the image below I show my gand of the planing of my production process.



For the design, I focused on the space the drum set occupies and also on the comfort when playing it, so I outlined my first idea about my first drum I made in a CNC cut.
But the COVID pandemic came and I had to change my initial idea, I left some photos of my initial idea below.

============ .step 1. ============

-Design and Drawing-

I show my design sketch of my KMR-V1 drum. For this drum I decided fabracted in lasercut.

Picture S.1.0. This are my sketches of my drum. The sketches I chose to make was the one drawn in black ink, located at the bottom.

Picture S.1.1. In the image below I show a sketch of the wiring and trace of the KMR-V1 drum cables.

============ .STEP 2. ============

-Design and draw my new design in Rhinoceros-

Picture D1.0. This are my final design of my Drum. I called KMR V1, the V1 it means version1. And I made a brand Liusherz Drum.

Picture D1.1. This are a screenshot of my design ready to cut in the lasercut machine. In the left region are the molds of my drum and In the right region are my pedal parts mold.

Picture D1.2. This are the border of the pads and the holes for the screws M3.

Picture D1.3. This are the board of the trace of the cable of the piezo pads.This board will be made of acrylic.

This are a 3D view of my Drum KMR-V1.



For this design of my drum I will only need three means of manufacture: Laser Cutting - Molding - Electronic Production. With these three means I can easily assemble my drum. For all the design I will use the Rhinoceros program that when the design is finished correctly, I will generate the dxf files that will allow me to manufacture the parts of my KMR-V1 Drum.

============ .step 1. ============

-Making the base, drums pads and the pedal-

I started and placed the material that I will use to make my Drum and the molds to make my silicone pads. The material I will use is MDF and I will also use acrylic.
In the images that I show below it is the manufacture of my drum in the laser cutter Boss Laser LS 1630.

Picture LC1.0. Laser cutter Boss Laser LS 1630.

Picture LC1.1. I upload my files to the laser cutting software to start the cut.

-Here are the MDF files ready to cut int the lasercut machine: Drum-Files
-Here are the acrilic files ready to cut int the lasercut machine: Acrl-Files

Video LCV1.0. In this video i document the cut of first board that is the base of my drum.

Video LCV1.1. In this video I document the cut of the second board that is the acrylic board.

Video LCV1.2. In this video I document the cut of the third board that is the tops of my drum pads.

This pictures below is my final result of my cut.

Picture LC1.2. In this picture I show my Brand was i designed to this proyect.

Picture LC1.3. This are the holds when i passed the cables of the piezos to the PCB.

Picture LC1.4. In this picture show the first and second board final.

Picture LC1.5. In the place we I made my drum I dont have acrilyc of 5mm so I decided to made two boards of acrilyc. In this image below, I show all the boards that I made and put them in order as they would be to assemble my drum.

Picture LC1.6. In this picture I show my cut of my pedal.

Picture LC1.7. This is the acrylic window that goes in the PCB case.

============ .step 2. ============

-Molding the pads of my Drum kit in silicon-

Well, I really enjoyed this step because I personally like to do molding and casting. So I made my drum pads out of silicone. Because the silicone absorbs the sound of the hit and also increases the bounce of the club when hitting the pads.

I do a test of rebound and sound absorption for this I made a mold to make a pad to test my theory.

Picture ML1.0. I do the same as in the wildcard, brush all surfaces of the mold with vaseline. the mold is somewhat improvised just for testing.

Picture ML1.1.

Video ML1.0. Here are the test of my theory. My theory was fine and works perfectly.

In this step I molding the pads in silicon, so in the pictures bolow I show the process I have to fabricate the molds and the pads for my DrumKit.

=========== -PEDAL MOLD and PAD- ===========

In the picture below for the F8.0 to the F8.8 I show the fabriaction for the pedal mold and the silicon pad.

Picture ML2.0. I paste the lasercut pizes to build the mold.

Picture ML2.1. This the final view for my pedal pads.

Picture ML2.2. In this picture I show the silicon pad process.

Picture ML2.3. I have a secret mix. I used 100g or Silicon F-20 and 15g of the catalizer and 2g of ink. This mix have faster dry.

Picture ML2.4. This are the catalizer I used.

Picture ML2.5. So when I finish the mixture well, I pour it into the mold carefully covering the entire mold evenly.

Picture ML2.6. A normal drying lasts 6 to 8 hours but with my secret mixture I dry it in 3 hours. In the picture I show the top pad of my pedal.

Picture ML2.7. In this picture I show the bottom pad of my pedal. I decided to put a silicone pad on the base of the pedal because I wanted it to be non-slip and it worked.

Picture ML2.8. Pedal final view.

============ -DRUM MOLD and PAD- ============

In the picture below I show the fabriaction for the drum mold and the silicon pads.

Picture ML3.0. This are the two molds I have to fabricate the pads of silicone.

Picture ML3.1. In this image below I pour the silicone into the two molds and wait for it to dry and repeat the procedure, twice in the large mold and three times in the small mold.

Picture ML3.2. I wait to dry the silicone.

Picture ML3.3. Once dry, he took it out of the mold and cut off the excess.

Picture ML3.4. After checking that everything is fine, with the help of a dremel I cut the corresponding holes of the pads. So step to drill 5 holes.

Picture ML3.5. In the photo below I show when I put the bolts in the 5 holes.

Picture ML3.6. I join the mdf edge with their corresponding pads and attach the 5 bolts with 5 washers in the holes.

Picture ML3.7. In the image below, I show the pads in their respective places.

Picture ML3.8. In the image below I show the final result of my drums.

============ .step 3. ============

-.Design the PCB - Milling - Soldering.-

For the electronic I use EasyEDA to schematic and PCB my circuit. Below are the steps. But first I need to know the pin out of my attiny mega and my ISP conector

Pinout.1. This is the my ATMEGA 328 pinout.

Pinout.2. And this is the ISP pinout I used the & pin IDC.

-Electronics Componets I need to used-

Picture DMS1.0. In the picture below I search the componets I need to used in my PCB.

Picture DMS1.1. This are the componets I need to soldering into my PCB.

This are the list of material I need to build my all Drum.

Product name Unit price Units Subtotal
ATMEGA 328 P-AU s/.12.00 1 s/.12.00
2x3 Pin Conector S/3.00 1 S/3.00
1x6 Pin Conector S/3.00 1 S/3.00
AVRISPS6-SMD S/2.00 1 S/2.00
LED 1206 S/1.00 2 S/2.00
RESISTORS 499R S/1.00 2 S/1.00
CAPASITORS 0.1U S/1.00 3 S/1.00
ED555 2DS S/1.50 6 S/9.00
RESISTORS 1M S/0.80 6 S/4.80
CRYSTAL 16MHZ S/1.00 1 S/1.00
CAPASITORS 22pf S/0.50 2 S/1.50
BUTTOM S/2.00 1 S/2.00
RESISTOR 10K S/1.00 1 S/1.00
MDF S/15.00 6 S/90.00
SILICON catalizer S/ 1 S/
TTL FT232 S/.17.00 1 S/.17.00
CELLULOSE PCB BOARD S/.20.00 1 S/.20.00
TOTAL - 38 S/167.30

============-. DESIGN THE PCB .-============

In EasyEDA I draw my schematic and trace my PCB circuit.

Picture DMS2.0. Here are my file of my schematic: Download.

Once I have finished making my schematic, I step to draw and trace my pcb.

Picture DMS2.1. This step was very difficult, because I had to think a lot and it was difficult to connect all the components correctly tracing the entire PCB in addition to creating a layout for my PCB.

Picture DMS2.2. This are the preview view of this PCB. This is the PCB that I mill and use on my drum.

-Export Gerber and open in FlatCAM

Once the trace of my PCB is finished, I export the Gerber files from EasyEDA. To later open them in FlatCAM, prepare my PCB for milling.

Picture DMS2.3. In the picture below I show my traced open in FlatCAM.

Picture DMS2.4. Traces

Picture DMS2.5. Outline

Picture DMS2.6. Holes

Here are the ready files to mill: Mill-Files

============-. MILLING THE PCB .-============

Picture DMS3.0. I open the roland mill software and configure it to mill the trace from my PCB.

Video FV2.0. First I mill the trace and used a endmill 1/64".

Picture DMS3.1.

Picture DMS3.2. I clean the dust with a brush and gently remove the dust from the milling to be able to see the result of the milling and if there is an error to correct it.

Picture DMS3.3. After cleaning the PCB I check that all the trace is fine.

Picture DMS3.4. I carefully checked the PCB and I see that the milling Trace went very well.

Picture DMS3.5. To mill the holes I change the endmill 1/64" to the 1/32".

Video FV2.1. Second I mill the holes.

Picture DMS3.6. In the image below I show you the holes.

Video FV2.2. Third I mill the outline.

Picture DMS3.7.

Picture DMS3.8. Once the milling is finished, I clean it with the brush.

Picture DMS3.9. With the help of a scalpel, clean some residues in the traces.

Picture DMS3.10. This are the final view of my PCB.

Video FV2.3. Once the total milling is finished, I use a multimeter to verify that all the traces are correct.

===========-. SOLDERING THE PCBB .-===========

Picture DMS4.0. The first componet to I solding is the Atmega328.

Picture DMS4.1.

Picture DMS4.2. Next I solding the other componets.

Picture DMS4.3. The holes where my TTL connection goes came out small so I decide to repair it using a dremell.

Picture DMS4.4. I fixed it.

Picture DMS4.5. Once my PCB is repaired I finish soldering all components.

Picture DMS4.6. This is the top of my PCB.

Picture DMS4.7. This is the back of my PCB.

- Debbuggin the PCB -

For this I burn bootloader code on the DRUM PCB.

Screenshot 1. Everything's alright. YEAH! Now my PCB is ready to uploaad the Code of the KMR-V1 Drum.

======-. PROGRAMING THE CODE-KMR-V1 .-======

Picture PrG.0. I adapted the code that Mark Demers used, 'copiwrite' 2009, to my KMR-V1 Drum.

Picture PrG.1.

-Here are the CODE-file: KMR-V1 CODE

Picture PrG.2. I upload to my PCB and incidentally I will test the communication with the respective software.




In this part I am dedicated to programming and reviewing the communication between the PCB and the PC using an FTDI device - FT232 TTL.

-.Programming the PCB Drum.-

Picture EC1.0. In the image below I show my soldered PCB ready to program and upload the drum code.

Picture EC1.1. I first feed my PCB via my Programmer and upload a blink to my PCB using the Arduino IDE.

Video FV3.2. It's works the Blink!.

Video FV3.2. In the video below I show the Piezo - PCB communication.

Video FV3.3.

Picture EC1.2. I try conect my PCB to a UART (TTL) FTDI, but ist'n woked.

Picture EC1.3.

Picture EC1.4.

Picture EC1.5.

Picture EC1.6.

-Here are the CODE-file: KMR-V1 CODE


Assamble the KMR v1


======-. Attach the pads and the pcb .-======

Picture ASM1.0. Attached the PCB on the KMR board.

Picture ASM1.1. I decided to paint my MDF board in Black and use a Yellow acrilic in to the window of the PCB case.

Picture ASM1.2.

Picture ASM1.3.

============-. Trace the Cables .-============

Picture ASM2.0. PCB piezos conection.

Picture ASM2.1. Cable traced.

Picture ASM2.2. Piezos conecting.

============-. Conect the UART .-============

Picture ASM3.0. In this picture I show the pin conection of the UART on my KMR PCB.

Picture ASM3.1. So I attached.

Picture ASM3.2. For more savety I designed a cas to the UART.

Picture ASM3.3. UART (serial converte usb to ftdi) Case.

Picture ASM3.4. UART (serial converte usb to ftdi) Case.

Picture ASM3.5. I fabricate my own usb type B cable to comunicated my UART to the PC.

Picture ASM3.6. This is a picure of the connection.

============-. I do some extra! .-============

Since I'm making a drums, I thought I'd make a Couple of Drumsticks. Then it occurred to me to make an engraving of the brand I invented on some A7 bamboo sticks and called it LIUSHERZ STICK. I show some picture below.

Picture ASM4.0. I prepare the drumstick to engraving in the Lasercut Machine.

Picture ASM4.1.

Picture ASM4.2.



For this I test the drum kit complete. I hope all be alright

==========-. Connection to the PC .-==========

Picture TST1.0.

In order for my drum to work I need to have these programs: The main program is ZDrummer2 and these secondary ones are just as important without these my DrumKit does not work: Hairless-MIDIserial, LoopMIDIsetup and ASIO4all 2. And this software is not vital is called PocketMIDI, which I it allowed to visualize the recognition of the hits that it gave in the pads to be able to modify and correct any problem. I'll leave the links below.

================-. SOFTWARES .-================

Here are the softwares I need to make my drum work properly.

For the sound and effects I used ZDrummer2 This software allows me to customize the sounds that the drums make to my liking. The ZDrummer2 default gives me a few libraries if I want more I can find more on the internet.
I view this video in youtube to download and install the ZDrummer2 on my computer.
And here are the link. ZDrummer2 .

-Here are the link of the program for the reduce the latence when I hit my pads of my drum. Is a plugin to ZDrummer. ASIO4ALL2 .

-Here are the link of the of download of the way to connect serial devices (like Arduinos) to send and receive MIDI signals. Hairless MIDIserial .

-Here are the link of the software can be used to create virtual loopback MIDI-ports to interconnect applications on Windows that want to open hardware-MIDI-ports for communication. LoopMIDI .

-Here are the link of the software MIDI monitoring tool for connect your MIDI instrument to computer using a USB or USB/MIDI adapter and you can monitor MIDI messages to and from your instrument in real time. PocketMIDI .

==============-. COMUNICATION .-==============

Video FV*.0. In this video I show the communication between my PCB and my PC, by touching the Piezos, making the previously mentioned softwares installed on my PC recognize the blow and emit a sound.

In this part I show my all complete DrumKit conected to my PC to recognize the blow and emit a sound like a real drum.

Picture F2.3.

Picture F2.3.




Picture FVW1.0.

Picture FVW1.1.

Picture FVW1.2.

Picture FVW1.3.

Picture FVW1.4.

Picture FVW1.5.

Picture FVW1.6.

Picture FVW1.7.

Picture FVW1.8.


Summary Slide


-. Dissemination of my final project .-

This is my presentation of my project in pdf. I hope you like.

- PDF of my Slide


Video Reel


-. KMR-V1 Electronic Drum Kit - Video Reel .-

This are my video when I show all the process and the steps of the all fabrication of the KMR - Electronic Drum Kit.




May the force be with you
See you!