This week we learned about the fundamentals of 3D printing and scanning, not only about how they work but also how to design specifically for them by following design rules such as tolerances, wall thickness, overhang angles, suport considerations and material limitations.
These technologies are important because they connect the digital and physical worlds in a fast, accesible and precise way. It can help us to tangibilize projects into prototypes or even small scale products.
For this assigment I modeled two objects in different programms (Onshape and Maya) and used both filament and resin 3D printing (FDM & MSLA). To know more about 3D Printing check the group asigment.
The first object I modeled was a flexible manta ray, for this I used Onshape because it is the CAD I'm more familiar with. The overall tools I used were extrusion, loft and fillets.
Modeling in Onshape
1. Create a new skecth and draw your base siluette. For this drew and dimensioned a rectangle to now the overall dimension I wanted and then I use the tool spline that let use make multi-point curves.
2. Extrude the sketch, in this case I did a 3mm extrusion.
3. Create an offset plane with 8mm distance from the Top plane (we will do a loft so we need some distance)
4. Create a sketch on the plane we created, draw an elipse that is centered to the manta raya.
5. Select both the extrusion face of the manta raya and the elipse we created, and make a loft
6. Fillet the edges, for this I played with the parameters such as the radious, magnitudes and variable fillets.
Note: I created different fillet instances because some are edges are not compatible with the same parameters (either the radious is to large of there is self-intersection).
For exampple in here I used variable fillet because the last two curves didnt accept the 2mm radious but worked just fine with 1.5 mm radious.
6.1 I also did a small fillet (0.8mm) to the horns.
7. Create a sketch on the Front plane and draw the exterior profile of the tail (its not necessary to dimension it that's why the lines are blue).
8. Make an extrusion to eliminate that part of the tail, that way it will look more natural.
9. Round the tail with fillets.
9.1 Change the fillet parameters in case its needed.
9.2 Fillets in general soften the sharp edges, reducing stress, improving the structural performance, printability, and aesthetics.
10. Create a new sketch on Front plane and draw a rectangle that is bigger than the manta ray.
11. With the previous rectangle, make an extrusion to remove material. I used starting offset to control where I wanted the 5mm cut. This will divide our manta ray into different pieces.
11.1 Repeat the process and change the starting offset distances.
11.2 In total, we are goin to make 4 cuts (to have 5 pieces)
Note: You can have the same result by using offset planes and using the tool split.
12. Once you have the pieces, round its corners.
13. Create a sketch on Top plane and draw a slot of 5mm with a concentric circle of 3mm. This will help us create the hinges.
14. Extrude it and center it to your piece.
15. Create a sketch on the Right plane, and draw a slot of 4.5 mm and a concentric circle of 2.5mm. This to improve the fit and functionality of the hinge.
16. Round the corners to improve clearance during rotation and reduce unwanted friction points between parts.
17. Once you have the first hinge use transform and linear patterns to move and duplicate the hinges in the positions you want. After that use the tool boolean to merge the hinges with the parts. This way you will have the 5 final pieces.
18. Select all the pieces and export them in stl.
18.1 These are the export parameters I used.
3D Slicing with Creality Print
1. Download and open Creality Print.
I use Creality Print because it is developed by the same manufacturer as the Ender 3 V3 SE printer, and eventough I have used Cura, I have gotten better and faster results with this slicer.
2. Go to File on the tool bar, and select Import STL, then chose the STL file of your model.
3. The programm will open your project, in this case its already oriented. So I didn't change its position.
4. On the right side, you will find the print settings panel. For this exercise I chose a user preset I made for Silk PLA.
It has almost the same parameters as the system preset PLA but I changed the nozzle temperature to 210º C and bed temperature to 60º C
5. Then I changed the layer height to 0.12 mm to improve the overall print resolution and surface quality.
6.I also turned on ironing to have a smoother and uniform top surface.
7. For the infill I reduced the density to 10% with gyroid pattern. I selected these parameters because the piece is not structural and relies mainly on wall thickness for strength. This reduced material usage and print time while maintaining sufficient internal support.
8. For the speed settings I used the preset ones.
9. I enabled “slow down for overhangs” to improve print quality in the fins and hinge areas. Slower speeds allow better cooling and reduce sagging in unsupported sections.
10. I also enabled supports because it has an overhang in the tail. I selected the tree supports because they minimize contact with the model, reducing surface marks on visible areas.
11. Because my piece is curved and I wanted to improve its quality. I used the Variable Layer Height this allows us to automatically or manually adjust layer thickness throughout different regions of the model instead of using one constant layer height for the entire print.
12. With higher smooth value the layers have a softer transition. To learn more about this, I recommend you the following video
Be careful with the smoothing and thin layers as it can increase the printing time a lot.
13. Once you like the layer heigh results, click on the arrow next to send print and select slice plate.
14. After this we will see a preview that show us the printing time and overall movements. In this case the piece is estimated to take 1h 42m
15. Then go to the arrow next to send print an select Export G-code.
The G-code is the file that has all the instructions your 3D printer will follow.
In this case, it was made for a Ender-3 V3 SE printer. Go to the 3D printing section to know more about the final results.
3D Printing with an Ender-3 V3 SE
For this exercise I used an Ender 3 V3 SE 3D printer connected to a Creality Sonic Pad running Klipper firmware.
The printer was controlled remotely via its local IP address using a web interface allowing file upload, monitoring, and print control directly from my computer. Here is the step by step
1. Turn on the 3D printer, the switch is located at the left side.
2. Turn on the Creality Sonic Pad. And wait until the Klipper is fully booted.
3. To control it via IP. Go to Configure, then Network Settings, and click Wireless network to see the IP address assigned to the device (e.g., 192.168.X.XXX).
4. On my computer (same WiFi network), I typed that IP address into the browser. This opened the Klipper web interface, where I can upload G-code Files, monitor temperature, control movement and start/stop prints remotely.
5. To upload a file, go to the left tool bar and select File List.
5.1 Then i will appear a File list bar, click on the + symbol, and select Upload & Print
Then the print will start and can monitor it remotely.
This was the final result.
Trough this process I did a small test with the followimg parameters: 0.2mm layer height, ironing at all top surfaces and no variable height layer.
Also the actual printing time was smaller to the slicer and to the first test. It took 1h 7min to printing time.
The changes might sound small but the quality improved with smaller layer height (0.12mm) and the variable layer settings. I also change the ironing to just the Top-most surface, instead to all top surfaces, because it wasnt necessary.
Also the hinges I first designed worked well at the beginning but after to much movement they broke, so I later on I made the hinges thicker (5mm and 3mm)
Crab
The second object I modeled was a crab, but instead of using a parametric CAD, I used Maya and experimented with resin 3D printing.
Modeling in Maya
1. Open a new project on Maya.
2. Import your reference images (in this case top and fronts views).
3. Use the poly modeling bar to create a sphere.
4. Modify the shape of the sphere moving either the Vertex, Edge, or Face components.
5. Create a cylinder, scale it and rotate it.
6. Modify the shape of the cylinder to make its leg.
7. Mirror the leg.
8. Repeat the process but for the other legs.
9. Copy the botton leg and paste it 3 times.
10. Modify the rest of the legs with scale.
11. Mirror the legs.
12. Create a sphere to make the claw.
13. Modify its shape. Smooth the shape in case its necessary
13. Then I edited it to match the crab head size. After that I exported it on STL.
Maya is also known for its lighting, texturing, and simulation tools. That is why I played woth the crab texture paint.
And for the renders I moved the body to make a pose
You can add backgrouds, light and ambience.
After that I used the Arnold Rendered in Maya.
You can play with poses.
Or with camera positions.
3D Slicing with Anycubic Photon Workshop
1. Download and open Anycubic Photon Workshop programm
2. Select your printer. In this case Anycubic Photon STL Mono MS5.
3. Go to Import Files and select your model (crab)
4. The programm will open your file, in this case it is to small and we need to re-orient it.
5. Use the scale tool on the left. I scaled it to have a height of 5cm.
6.Use the rotate tool to re-orient the model.
7. Hollow your piece, in this case with a 3mm wal and no infill structure.
8. Then we will create two drainage holes with the punch tool, to allow trapped uncured resin to drain.
8.1 These holes will also prevent vacuum-induced suction failures during printing. Imade one at the top and at the bottom of the piece.
10. Then add supports. The first print I sent was with medium supports, but I believe for these model its better the light supports as they are easier to remove.
This is how my piece looks with supports.
11. Before slicing, select the type of resin you are going to use. In this case I selected High Speed Resin.
12. However I changed the present parameters. The Normal Exposure Time to 2.5s, the Bottom Exposure Time to 20s and 5 Bottom Layers.
13. Then you can slice it and see the layers preview.
14. Check that your parameters are correct and save the slice file in a USB
3D Printing with Anycubic Photon Mono MS5
For this exercise I used an Printing with Anycubic Photon Mono MS5.
1. Turn on the 3D printer and insert the usb with your sliced file located at the right side.
2. Search and select your file.
3. Then click on print.
4. Then the printer will use UV light to cure liquid resin layer-by-layer
5. After its done retire the print and remove the supports.
6. Then clean the pieces with isopropyl alcohol and cire them. I confingure a 15 min cure.
6.1 The pieces will rotate under an UV lamp.
This was the final result.
After that I applied a small layer of white primer and sanded the piece to with a 220-grit waterproof sandpaper. The primer cill help us to see imperfections.
After that I painted it with a Montana 94 aerosol.
Eventhough resin printing haves high resolutions, sometimes we need to process it (for example to eliminate support marks). Here we can see the difference between a pos-processed piece and one un-processed.
Errors while 3D Printing with Anycubic Photon Mono MS5
3D printing whith resin can be a little bit complex. When I first send it the membrane was ripped so the hole didn't let the UV light cure correctly.
Here you can se the hole on the base, so even after the printing time pased it didnt cure more that the first layers.
Another issue I had was the "Zero release force", it means that the piece isn't adhered correctly to the build plate. To correct it I aumented the bottom exposure time (from 10s to 20s)
To replace the membrane we need to disassemble the printer
1. The first step to re-assemble is adding a clean acetate.
2. Then add the build plate.
3. Then add the Resin Vat, in this case it already has the resin but you can add it later.
4. Secure it with its respective screws.
3D Printing a hat with Ender-3 V3 SE
To complement the crab I also 3D printed the hat I prevously downloaded. I followe the same steps as when I printed the Manta Ray.
1. First I imported the hat and copied to do 2 printing test.One hat is oriented to minimize print time.
And the other one by default auto orientation.
2. Then I change the preset PlA parameters to a layer height of 0.25mm because I used Wood PlA and having a low layer height can clog the nozzle.
Then I left the rest of the parameters as they were.
These were the speeds I used.
After that I sliced it, the estimated printing time was of 33min
These were the printing results, even with the same parameters the one with default orientation (right side) has better quality.
Fish
Lastly I scaned a ceramic fish with the EinScan-SE scanner.
Scanning with EXScan Software for the EinScan-SE scanner.
2.1. To be able to create a new work, the scanner must be on and connected via USB to your computer.
3. Then you will need to calibrate the scanner.
3.1 The first calibration consists of 3 steps. In each step we need to change the board position to how the programms indicates.
Here is how the calibration works while rotating the board
After the calibration is done a message will appear and follow to the white balance calibration.
4. To do the white balance you neeed to add a white paper to the board.
5. After calibration is done, the program will ask you to name and save your new work.
6. Then select if you want a texture or non-texture scan.
The first one saves the colors and details of the piece while the second one records only the 3D shape. For this exercise I selected the Non-Textured Scan.
8. After that we can edit the scan settings. I uses low brightness, enabled HDR and Turntable with 12 steps. Then I started the scanning.
9. Here is an example of how it scans using white light patterns.
10. The scan will repeat the process the steps you selected , in this case 12.
11. After the Scan is done, apply the edits and global optimization.In case there is blank information on your scan you can add another scan process and mesh them.
12. I did 2 more scans with the fish in different positions, as the top and bottom information was missing.
12.1 Here is how the second scan looks.
13. Once the scan is done mesh the model.
14. For meshing the programm will ask you if you want a Watertight or Unwatertight model, the first one closed any holes your model had while scanning. I chose Watertight.
15. Then you can select the quality of the mesh (number of triangles) in this case I seleceted Medium Detail.
16. Afterwards you will have your model and select some post-processing tools like sharpen or smooth.
17.After post processing
Learning Outcomes
This week I deepened my understanding of 3D modeling and additive manufacturing by experimenting with both parametric and non-parametric workflows.
Working with Maya allowed me to explore a more sculptural and organic approach compared to CAD-based modeling, helping me understand the differences in precision, control, and flexibility between both systems.
Understanding joints and tolerances:
I learned that hinge functionality depends heavily on clearance, thickness, and movement allowance.
Even small dimensional adjustments (for example increasing hinge thickness in the Manta Ray) significantly improve durability.
I still believe I can improve the shape, size, and movement behavior of the manta ray joints.
Designing for 3D printing limitations:
It is essential to consider tolerances, overhang angles, wall thickness, supports, and material behavior from the beginning of the design process.
Designing without these rules leads to print failures or weak parts. Also 3D printing is an opprtunity for object that are difficult to produce via substracting manufacturing, such as the Manta Ray flexible print.
Importance of slicing configuration:
Print parameters such as layer height, variable layer settings, and exposure time (resin) directly affect print quality, material consumption, and production time.
Optimizing these settings enables faster iterations and more efficient rapid prototyping.
Differences between FDM and resin printing:
While resin printing provides higher resolution and surface detail, it introduces additional challenges such as membrane maintenance and suction forces.
FDM printing is more accessible and forgiving, but requires careful attention.
3D scanning process:
I learned that 3D scanning requires careful positioning, multiple captures, alignment, and mesh cleaning.
The raw scan is rarely perfect and usually needs refinement before it can be used for modeling or printing.
Iterative improvement mindset:
Testing, failing, and adjusting parameters (like exposure time or hinge thickness) help me improve the final results, even if there are preset parameters is essential to do test as the same parameters might not work due different conditions (3D printer settings and filament).
Overall, this week re-inforced my ability to design intentionally for additive manufacturing instead of simply modeling shapes and hoping they print correctly. While learning the different approches and aplications additive manufacturing has.