In Week 5, I learned about 3D scanning and printing technologies. I explored how to use 3D scanners to capture real-world objects and convert them into digital models. I also learned about different 3D printing techniques and materials, and how to prepare models for printing.
3D Scanning
In our lab, we have the Spider from Artec 3D, a professional handheld 3D scanner.
I learned how to use the scanner to capture objects and process the scanned data in software like Artec Studio. Here are some scans we took under our instructor's supervision:
Design considerations for 3D printing (overhangs, supports, resolution, etc.)
Next, I decided which designs I wanted to print:
I chose to print a simple design using the in-place technique, which is difficult to produce with CNC: a small dragon.
I also wanted to print a small Ramadan statue to try different colors, inspired by this photo I found on Instagram.
And I wanted to print a pen holder by scanning my hand, inspired by this photo.
Lastly, I wanted to print a small butterfly using SLA.
Then, I prepared the models for printing using Ultimaker Cura and other 3D software.
Finally, I printed the models and documented the results.
First Piece : Dragon
In this model, I tried to focus on the advantages and capabilities of additive design over subtractive manufacturing by printing a dragon in one piece using the in-place technique.
I prepared the model for printing using Ultimaker Cura. I used the default settings for PLA material.
Here is a video that shows the printing process using the in-place technique and the result:
Here is the final result:
This dragon showed me that 3D printing is a powerful tool for creating complex and intricate designs that would be difficult or impossible to produce using traditional manufacturing methods.
Second Piece : Ramadan Statue
For this piece, I wanted to create a decorative statue that celebrates the spirit of Ramadan. I designed a simple lantern-shaped statue with intricate patterns inspired by Islamic art. I used a combination of black and white PLA filaments to create a visually striking piece.
I chose this piece to try printing with two different filaments in the same layer.
I took my inspiration from this photo:
I uploaded my design to Inkscape to trace the base design and convert it to vectors so I could import it into Fusion 360 as an SVG file and extrude it into a 3D model.
💡 Note: I converted the image to vectors using: Path -> Trace Bitmap -> Apply.
💡 Note: I had to do some manual adjustments to the design in Inkscape to make it suitable for 3D printing, such as simplifying some details and ensuring that all parts were properly connected.
Then I edited the model in Fusion 360 to add some details and make it more suitable for 3D printing.
After preparing the model in Ultimaker Cura, I set it up for dual-extrusion printing by following these steps:
First, I added the second core to the printer and made sure it matched the first one.
Then I calibrated the printer by following the instructions in the printer's guide at this link.
First, I started the calibration process on the Ultimaker.
Then it printed the test pattern.
After the test pattern was printed, I checked the alignment of the first filament with the second one using this sheet as a reference.
From this sheet, I chose Y at -1.5 and X at 1.5.
After calibration, I prepared the model for printing in Ultimaker Cura by assigning different parts of the model to different extruders based on the colors I wanted to use.
💡 Note: To do multi-color printing in Cura, you should import each component separately. You cannot select part of a single body to use one filament and another part to use a different filament. I did this by hiding all parts and components in Fusion 360 except the one I wanted to export, then exporting it as an .stl file and importing it into Cura.
💡 Note: I tried to use vabric material at first, but it did not work, so I switched to PLA for both cores.
Finally, I printed the model, and here is the process:
And here is the final result:
Third Piece : Pen Holder
I decided to make this piece for two main reasons:
First, I wanted to try using the 3D scan of my hand to create a functional object. I thought it would be interesting to see how the scanned data could be used to create a custom-fit pen holder.
Second, I wanted to understand the purpose of making designs without supports, because I thought supports would make the process easier.
To work with the scan file, I downloaded Meshmixer from this link. The Artec software exports three files:
Then I added the .stl file to Cura for printing and enabled tree supports.
Here is the printing process:
And here is the final result:
💡 Note: As you can see, the surface finish is poor after I removed the supports.
Fourth Piece : Butterfly
For this piece, I wanted to try printing with SLA technology to see the difference in surface finish and detail compared to FDM printing. I designed a small butterfly model with intricate wing patterns to take advantage of the high resolution of SLA printing.
💡 Note: SLA materials are much more expensive than FDM materials, but they provide more detailed results, so they are widely used in jewelry and medical applications.
In our lab, we have SLA printers from Formlabs, so I prepared the model for printing using Formlabs PreForm software. I used the default settings for standard resin.
Here is the material I used:
💡 Note: Before printing, we should ensure that the tank, bed, and cartridge are installed correctly. We can verify this by checking the printer screen; when we see three correct signs, it means everything is ready.
I imported the model into PreForm software.
💡 Note: In SLA, since the model is printed upside down, we should add supports.
Here is the printing process:
And here is the final result:
💡 Note: When dealing with resin, we should wear gloves because some people may be allergic to it, and gloves also help keep our hands clean.
Then, we have to wash the printed piece in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to remove any residual resin.
💡 Note: According to the instructions, I should wash the piece for 5 minutes and then cure it for another 5 minutes.
After washing and curing, I removed the supports:
💡 Note: Removing supports from SLA prints is easier than from FDM prints because the supports are thinner and less dense. It is easier if you remove the supports after washing and before curing.
Here is the final result after removing the supports:
💡 Note: As you can see, the surface finish is much better than FDM, and the details are more visible.