Networking and communications

The assigment page
Design and build a wired &/or wireless network connecting at least two processors.

⇝ Making boards ⇝ Programming ⇝ Second making boards ⇝ Second programming

This week I want to make a foot switch triggered by the gyroscope on another board. I tested first with a momentary swith some weeks ago:



So here the concept: If the gyro is moving then trigger the rythmbox.



Ok. A footswitch is basicly a switch and if the button is pressed, the circuit is closed and then it's trigerring the rythmbox. So I need to send some current into the rythmbox.
My machine it's an Alesis SR-16 who's working with 9V. To be sure, I made this little circuit and mesure how many volt is using for the switch. 3.3V. So it's perfect, my boards will be powered with 3V batteries.



And I tested with the "Blink" exemple to control the machine. It's 5V then, but it didn't seems to be a problem, the blinking is very short:



I need 2 boards. One on the guitar with the gyro and one who will be plugged to the machine and control it. Those boards will be powered with 3v button batteries.
I'm using an RF24 radio component. I checked on the Arduino library where to connect its pins on an Attinny84 HERE.



Here the schematics and traces for the first board (gyro):





Components:

• Attiny84A
• Slide switch
• 9 pins headers
• 2 pins headers
• 6 pins headers
• 8 pins headers
• 10k resistor
• 1 0 ohm resistors
• 3 capacitor: 1uF, 0.1, 10uF
• Renata SMTU-2032-1 battery holder (footprints)

The switch is used when programming the board. ISP comes with VCC and it's not good to powered the board with 3v (from the battery) in the same time. The switch is used to turn off the battery when programming.
I try to mill this board but the result was no good, with a lot of traces who was not milled:



And here's the schematics and traces for the second board:





Components:

• Attiny84A
• Slide switch
• 2 2 pins headers
• 6 pins headers
• 8 pins headers
• 1 red led
• 2 10k resistor
• 3 capacitor: 1uF, 0.1, 10uF
• Renata SMTU-2032-1 battery holder (footprints)

I milled the 2 boards as always and soldered its, here they are:



A bit of avrdude -c usbtiny -p t84. My boards are reconized.
I tested first the gyro board with my old gyro-plexy.ino. It worked.
I test the second one with this code:
/* Blink Turns an LED on for one second, then off for one second, repeatedly. Most Arduinos have an on-board LED you can control. On the UNO, MEGA and ZERO it is attached to digital pin 13, on MKR1000 on pin 6. LED_BUILTIN is set to the correct LED pin independent of which board is used. If you want to know what pin the on-board LED is connected to on your Arduino model, check the Technical Specs of your board at: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Products modified 8 May 2014 by Scott Fitzgerald modified 2 Sep 2016 by Arturo Guadalupi modified 8 Sep 2016 by Colby Newman This example code is in the public domain. http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink */ // the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board void setup() { // initialize digital pin LED_BUILTIN as an output. pinMode(9, OUTPUT); } // the loop function runs over and over again forever void loop() { digitalWrite(9, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level) delay(100); // wait for a second digitalWrite(9, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW delay(5000); // wait for a second } It's just the Blink exemple where I changed the timing and the pin number. I use this to control the rythmbox. When the led's blinking, it's triggered the machine:



NOW TIME TO CODE