Assignment:
* 3D scan an object
- extra credit: make the scanner
* design and 3D print an object (small, few cm)
- extra credit: edit and print an object that you scanned
Firstly, I'm kind of sick so I don't attend today' class.
I am the only student who has a card to enter the university where we attend the video conference so today Japan team members will not attend or watch the streaming.
This is a #slit-type 3D scanner.
When spotting a slit ray on an object, you can see a part of its outline. Then after rotating the object, you can see another aprt of its outline.
A slit-type 3D scanner integrates plural number of the parts of its outline with rotating an object (or sometimes rotating a light).
v This is in Japanese but explains the system well.
Here is what I made with a laser-cutter.
Then I put it at the corner leg of my desk where it is dark.
I tried to scan this cute Japanese version of Stanford Bunny I found at home.
Here is one of the photos I took.
After taking a photo, you rotate the turn table for 1.8 degree and take another photo. Then you will take 360/1.8 = 200 photos.
I couldn't make this as exactly as the sample shown by the software author.
It needs a very accurate rotation, a very accurate #carribulation and a bright and thin slit-ray.
I'd like to try to build a better way to spot a slit ray on an object. Maybe LED or laser beam?
printing
These are what I made with a 3D printer.
^ A cover of the USB flash memory which will be used instead of the old one I lost before. I made this with a Replicator.
I modelled this on Rhinoceros.
An atatchment to fix the aluminum frames to our CNC milling machine.
We use this milling machine named Rockler CNC Shark instead of shopbot.
This original platform is made of MDF, some parts of it now rises by the tightening its clamps too much and too many times.
v I found the upper version of this had a metallic platform, I decided to DIY this.
I found a aluminum frame which exactly fits to the clamps here. (Or maybe you can find a similar one here.)
But the width of the connected aluminum frames is different from the width of the MDF platform. In this case, we couldn't fix the aluminum frames on the body of Rockler CNC Shark.
v Also the MDF platform was fixed to the body with screws, you cannot screw an aluminum frame.
Then I made this 3D printed attatchment to let the aluminum frames to be fixed to the body of the Rockler CNC Shark.
I made this with a Dimension.
To make a USB flash memory cover, I used a Replicator for the first time.
Here are some instructions I thought were important.
How to set the platform at the correct height
When the platform is too near to the nozzle, the filament doen't go well from the nozzle.
When it is too far from the nozzle, the extruded filament will be like this below,
To avoid these problems, you need to set the height of the platform before printing.
^ Utilities (Choose the menu by pushing ^(up) / v(down) / M(enter))
^ Level Build Plate
Then the nozzle moves and stops at the front left, the front right, the back left, the back right and the center of the platform.
After setting the height of a point, push M of the front of your Replicator to move the nozzle to the next point to set.
Screw this part to set the height.
Loosen it to let the spring to push the platform up then the distance between the nozzle and the platform become nearer. Tighten the part to let it further.
