Design
Claw Machine
A type of arcade vending game where players use a joystick to control a mechanical claw, attempting to grab prizes.
Design Process
To begin designing the machine, I first created a moodboard to define the visual direction I wanted for the project. At the same time, I established the main design requirements for the machine:
- Modularity
- Avoiding the use of glue
- Organic aesthetic
After that, I started sketching different ideas for the claw machine.
Material Selection
The most challenging part was finding a complete solution that met all my requirements, especially because I did not want the screws to be visible. At first, I considered three possible materials for the enclosure:
- 3D printing
- Wood
- Metal
After analysing the different options, I decided to build it out of wood. This choice allowed me to complete the 3D model in SolidWorks. Once I had figured out how to make almost all the parts, I started assembling the box.
3D Model
Solid Works
I normally use solid to plan and test how i want to build a product. It provides me with the measurements and parts that i need.
STEPS TO MAKE THE PIECES:
Here you can find the general process of how i made the 3D model. I used the same tools I learned in the 3D modeling week, check the page if you want a more detailed explanation of how to build in SolidWorks.
I opened the assembly file that my team made.
I used the tool Measure to get the dimensions that I needed for the parts.
To get the dimensions just click on the faces that you need and the dimension will appear.
Then I designed each piece of the model, I based it on the sketch I had previously made of the machine. It was an iterative process of measuring and assembling to see if the pieces were right.
I made an assembly and added the pieces that I made. Here you can see all of them.
While I was joining the parts I got to see the mistakes that I made and adjusted the measurements.
After I had a general idea of the measurements and the parts I got to the fabrication part. I started with the structure.
Problem
At first I designed a machine that was supposed to have a disposing structure under the metal structure, but then my team sent me te 3D model of the machine and I had to change some things.
Structure fabrication
Safety Measurements
If you work with machines it is important to wear the correct equipment: overalls, safety boots, safety glasses and preferably a face mask (otherwise you could end up with a sore throat like I did). Also make sure to pay full attention when using the maschines to prevent accidents.
STEPS TO FABRICATE:
0
First, I went to Home Depot, where I bought two 1.22 m pine wood boards for building the main frame of the machine.
1
After that, I cut six wooden pieces of 63 cm using the miter saw. I based these dimensions directly on the measurements of my 3D model so that all the structural components would match the planned design.
2
The next step was making the grooves where the front plywood panels would later be inserted. I decided to include these grooves so the entire box would look more integrated and compact, while also reducing the need for external attachments.
2
To make these grooves, I first installed the router bit. I used a 1/8" straight cutting bit for material removal. To secure the bit correctly, fixed hexagonal wrenches are required.
3
Then, I mounted the router onto the router table available in the EdIT lab. For this, I turned the table upside down, positioned the router underneath, and fixed it in place using the safety locks tightened with wing nuts. Recommendation: It is important to make sure that the bit is centered in the hole of the table to avoid vibration or uneven cuts.
4
In order to adjust the cutting depth, the first step is to unlock the router by opening its safety lock.
5
Once unlocked, the bit height can be modified by turning the black adjustment thread.
6
I verified the final height with a vernier caliper so that all the grooves would have the correct dimensions. Each groove was made with approximately 4 mm depth and 2 cm width, matching the plywood insertion requirements.
7
At this point, we had a short pause because someone burned plastic in the IDIT, so the work had to stop temporarily.
8
After resuming, I placed a guide fence for the wooden pieces. I improvised this guide using a scrap wood piece fixed to the table with two C-clamps.
9
With another clamp, I placed a stopper to ensure that all the grooves would be cut at exactly the same position and height.
10
Recommendation: Before machining, it is very useful to mark with a pencil or pen which wooden pieces go together and where each groove should be located. This avoids confusion later during assembly.
11
Then I turned on the router and carefully passed each wooden piece through the bit to cut all the grooves. The upper grooves were made with a length of 12 cm, while the lower grooves were made with 15.5 cm, according to the front panel design.
12
Once all the pine structure pieces had their grooves finished, I moved on to the laser cutting process.
13
I laser cut the front plywood panels using 4 mm triplay. The detailed settings and process for laser cutting can be seen in Week 3: Computer Controlled Cutting.
14
After cutting, I checked that all the front panels fit correctly into the grooves and verified that the insertion was tight enough to hold them in place.
15
The next step was rounding the outer corners of the wooden structure to obtain a softer and more organic aesthetic. For this, I changed the router bit again using a fixed wrench, following the same tool changing process as before.
16
I placed the guide fence once again and carefully rounded each corner. Before machining the final pieces, I first tested the setup using one of the previous scrap pieces to ensure the cut was working correctly.
17
After finishing all the cuts, I started joining the wooden parts together. For the first assembly attempt, I used wooden dowels. I drilled the corresponding holes, inserted the dowels, and then used a rubber hammer to press them into place. Problem: I had several issues with this method because some dowels broke during insertion, and the final alignment was not completely straight.
18
To avoid the previous problem, I assembled the second part using metal corner brackets, which I highly recommend because they are much simpler, faster, and provide a more reliable joint. The brackets I found were too long on one side, so I cut them with a Dremel. To attach them, I used flat-head wood screws. I first measured the exact positions where each bracket would go and marked them with a pen before drilling and screwing them in place.
General recommendation:
Try testing your project on scrap pieces first to avoid wasting material.
Problem:
Since we had limited time to build the machine, I based the box design on the measurements my team sent me. However, when I finished and compared it to the machine's frame, I realized the frame was slightly taller, which meant my box didn't fit.
Solution:
I used a spare board, cutting two pieces to the width and length of the machine. I cut these in half with a band saw and screwed them to the underside of the machine. In the end, the problem had a silver lining: it gave the structure more stability.
Details
This week I cut out the Coca-Cola logo for a bottle prototype.
For the vinyl cutting I used a Cut Studio GS2-24 machine:
STEPS TO MAKE THE PIECES:
I started sketching my pieces, here i used equations and included the kerf variable. This is the piece that i used initially to test the kerf. I just resized it for my kit.
Final result
At the end I really liked how it tured out.
