Electronics Production

1. First, apply double-sided tape to the back of the copper board.
   Note: It must cover the entire board perfectly so it does not come loose while cutting.

2. Stick the board onto the sacrificial bed.

Mistake I made: Add extra tape on the sides where you are sure the board will not be cut, to prevent it from lifting. Halfway through the cut my board lifted and I had to pause. The board must be completely stuck to the sacrificial bed.

3. Screw the sacrificial bed into its mounting holes.

4. Insert the bit into the collet. Depending on what you want to do, you must use the corresponding collet and tighten it with an Allen key.

Tool order:

• Drill
• Trace
• Cut

• Make sure the tool has enough sharpness.
• Do not insert the tool too deep.
• To loosen with the Allen key, turn counterclockwise; to tighten, turn clockwise.

Run the file called "SETUP64.exe"

Note: With Cursor Step you can tell the tool to move faster (the "Continue" option) or slower (the "x1" option).

How do you know the Z axis is set correctly? It should be slightly deeper than the board surface, just enough to produce a small amount of dust, but not too much.

In case of emergency: If something goes wrong, press "Pause". If it can be fixed, correct the issue and resume. If not, press "Cancel".

Mistake I made: At one point the computer went into "Sleep" mode, and when I woke it back up a notification appeared. I clicked "Cancel" instead of "Retry", which closed the program along with my progress. The good news is that the program saves the previous origins, so I only had to restart the cut from where it left off.

How to solder?

I found it much easier to place the soldering iron on the component and the board for about three seconds, then bring the solder with flux (the substance inside that melts) as close as possible to the tip of the iron, so the solder does not stick to the iron's tip instead of where I want it.

https://github.com/earlephilhower/arduino-pico/releases/download/global/package_rp2040_index.json

// ================================
//  PCB Ochurus - XIAO RP2350
//  Toggle + Parpadeo de LEDs
// ================================

// --- Pines ---
const int LED = D8;
const int BTN = D7;

// --- Variables de estado ---
bool ledActive    = false;
bool lastBtnState = LOW;   // ← Cambiado a LOW (pull-down = LOW en reposo)

// --- Temporización del parpadeo ---
unsigned long lastBlink     = 0;
const int     blinkInterval = 500;
bool          blinkState    = false;

void setup() {
  pinMode(LED, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(BTN, INPUT_PULLDOWN);  // ← Cambiado a PULLDOWN
  digitalWrite(LED, LOW);
}

void loop() {
  bool currentBtnState = digitalRead(BTN);

  // Detecta flanco de subida (cuando se PRESIONA con pull-down)
  if (lastBtnState == LOW && currentBtnState == HIGH) {  // ← Invertido
    ledActive = !ledActive;
    if (!ledActive) {
      digitalWrite(LED, LOW);
    }
    delay(50); // Debounce
  }

  lastBtnState = currentBtnState;

  // Parpadeo sin usar delay()
  if (ledActive) {
    unsigned long now = millis();
    if (now - lastBlink >= blinkInterval) {
      blinkState = !blinkState;
      digitalWrite(LED, blinkState);
      lastBlink = now;
    }
  }
}

1. Select the correct port.
2. Once I had the code, I connected the XIAO to my computer with a USB-C cable.
3. I clicked "Verify".
4. Select "Upload".

If you're Gen Z, you know the OCHURUS reference! 🐭