I really wanna work on something that blends electronics and mechanics
Research
couple of ideas
real life mario kart with REAL karts or rc cars.
Research revealed very complex not so many sources of executing something like this
3D hologram fan, camera input and maybe sound
Electric drift tricycle.
rc plane that shoots flares.
My final Project
The fan blades rotate at an incredibly high speed, typically ranging from 500 to 2,000 revolutions per minute (RPM). As the blades spin, they display individual frames of the holographic image, making it appear as if the hologram is floating in the air.I start by making a gantt chart
A Gantt chart is a visual project management tool that maps out a project schedule, displaying tasks as horizontal bars against a timeline
Before we start it is important to understand a few terms
POV
Persistence of Vision is a property of human eyesight where an image stays on your retina for a tiny fraction of time (~1/16th of a second) even after it disappears.
Because of this, rapidly changing images blend together and look continuous.
Simple intuition
If you wave a glowing stick fast in the dark:
You don’t see a dot
You see a continuous light trail
That “trail” isn’t real — it’s your brain stitching moments together.
To supplement this feature we need to choose appropriate partsThis is a great motor for this project.Do not use casual dc motors, they have low KV(revolutions per minute as per each volt of current supplied)
and are not consistent
For the controller I will be using a esp32 S3.
& a esp32 devkit for prototyping
once i move to interaction i will also be using a esp 32 sense board for the camera.
Final component list
Designs
Here is the basic plan for the design
led encased in a press fit slide holder
Holder placed on a main blade led mount
PCB and components on blade to eliminate need for slip ring
motor mount to house A2212
This is the design for the blade,
Idea is to have a repairable inner sleeve fro neopixels and a fixed blade to the motor.
This is how the motor mounts onto it.This is how the neopixel fixes onto itnote to self- the mounting is filled minor overhangs making supportz tedious, fix designHub for mounting motor.
Trial Neopixel blinks
For trials I am using a WS2812B neopixel strip
I start by getting control of each led.
These are the components you will need to blink a neopixel
Neopixel LED strip
330 ohm resistor
1000 uF 25v capacitor
Powersupply
Jumper cables
ESP 32.
Im using single stranded wire for making micro soldering easier.connect the vin and gnd ports of esp to the + and - port of the PSUSolder two wires on the GND DIN VCC. and connect then connect the wires to PSU positive and negative. You can connect both wires as such with a alligator clips
Be careful on keeping wires away from eah other
Connect a 1000uF cpacitor to the positive and negetive wire of you ledHere i have just wound it casually on my wires, ideadally safely solder it.
Connect a 3rd DIN wire to the led.add a 330 ohm resistor to the DIN line
Change the define numpixels and pin number depending on your led
PCB trial Design
For a basic trial design, i started by creating a basic pcb to find out the effect of spinningcomponents at high speed
This is the schematic you can refer to
Pcb layoutThis was the milled out pcbnote to self- add mounting drill holes. to easily solder the xiaoI tried smd soldering the xiao on the board, but for some reason the paste didnt solidifydid normal solderingchecking track helath and solder contact on pads.Final soldered pcbThe led works, but the pcb layout needed to be edited to fit and work on the blade design.mounted working led with pcb
.Proto 1.
Working LED, with external powersource.i have all components on blade, this makes the blade very unstable but good for proto Upon spinning the blade at 800 rpm the battery almost flew off, thus i could not text imagery on this proto
Learnings from prototype 1
balancing the blade is gonna be of utmost importance
One single print file for the entire blade increases print time and decreses freedom to explore, multiple parts will allow me to explore more and be more free as mishaps just mean another small 40 minute print instead of 4 hours.
System integratin where all my pieces come together to cohesively create a project is something to nbe actively thought of, not a afterthought.
Either figure out to make your own slip ring, or find out wasy to balancec the blade super well.
Prototype 2- final Iteration
after the learnings from proto 1 i moved onto proto 2.
here my utmost importance was the balancing and system integrtion of the blade.
The plan
the blade is its own display system. with all its power and computing spinning alonf side it
the processing of image is another system sitting in the base. where we read rpms, process images, and shoot code to the blade wirelessly.
Improved multipart print.
This is how my blade looks like assembled
These are the mutiple parts i have diveded the same blade in
top acrullic protection
led strip holder
main blade
electronics housing
housing cap
motor coupling hub
This is the housing for the drone motor.
It had holes for m3 bolts to firmly hold itself to the base.
The base had corresponding holes with threaded inserts for holfing the motor housing.
All srew holes outside the body were designed with finish in mind, with steps so that the screws and bolts stay flush.
The top half the base also was designed in two parts with a magnetic snap to provide easy assembly of the blade system to the base system
ALl components laid out
This was the first prototype. so the jump to the newer design was amazing.
The battery gets bolted on as such. with a custom printed holder.
the blade was fully assembled but extremelyyyyy unstable. main reason being one side of the blade held the heavy 3.7v battery and the other was mostly empty with a light pcb and wires
i started thinking of ways to improve stability in the current form itself
i started by weighing all components on each side.
once I knew a value, i started looking for things i could add and subtract easily and simething that was dense enough to have weight and not move and rattle around
clay came to be an obvious and beutiful choice.
i printed a new model to house clay as such and enclose it
IT WORKED BEAUTIFULLY.
This was the stable spin after the clay edit.
Electronics Design 2
The pcb was redesigned with ports and pads in orientation accroding to the deisgn.
this was the soldered design. With the wifi antenna to boost range.
This is how the board fit onto the blade.
This is the power supply I used for the drone motor. Which lasted about 40 minutes of continuous running.
Since my esp32 sense baord did not arrive on time i did not design a pcb for it. thus the base currently only has the speed controller and the motor hosuing.
my actual plan was to have a pcb on the bas e with the esp32 sense camera module, and it shoots out to the
Interface Through Laptop
The entire interface and info related tohow the code works can be found in interface week here
FINAL DEMO
insane display but a camera just does not capture it well.
live feed to hologram worked brilliant with a plain bakcground and contrasting clothes and colours.
all in all a great project with tonnes of learnings and still the heart isnt satisfied
Learnings and Future Prospects
1. add esp32 sense
2. add as5600 magnetic encoder to stabilise the image being displayed
3. design a wall mount to further enhance the experinece and be closer to UX of a mirror
AND WITH THAT
Thankyou fab ❤️
Full design
Complete fusion 360 file for all parts, including components assembled