Molding and Casting


This week we were tasked with an individual set of activities and group work. Working as a group, we needed to try different molding and casting materials, make and compare casts with different materials, and compare milling versus printing molds. For our individual activities, this week we were tasked with designing and finishing a mold to cast with.

I got our group jump started for this week by making a list of common casting and mold making materials. I then created a chart with some basic information about the materials, thier properties when casting, thier properties when using as a mold, and general safety. I tried to choose materials that we either had in the lab, were common mold and casting materials, or materials I knew my group mates were interested in.

As a group we then each selected one mold making matrerial from the lab to cast the same 3D printed gear in. The goal was to have all the same casted object so we can compare the quality of the mold making materials. The material I choose to work with was Smooth-Sil 940. I really liked working with this material and I liked the quality of the final mold I was able to make with it. This seemed like a successful week for us, as we were able to compare the mold making materials and we can now make better choices for future casting projects.

As a follow up reflection to this week, the following week later my 9th grade students started doing resin epoxy pouring for class and I learned pretty quickly that I am alergic or at least susceptible to the material in its liquid form. This makes me greatful that as a group we casted with natural materials like chocolate and beeswax.

For a more in depth look at my groups week 14 assignment, see my groups Week 14 page.

Week 14

Check List

This week's project requirements:

    Group Assignment:

  • Review the safety data sheets for each of your molding and casting materials
  • Make and compare test casts with each of them
  • Compare printing vs milling molds
  • Document your work on the group work page
  • Reflect on what you learned on your individual page

    Individual Assignment:

  • Design a mold around the process you’ll be using
    • Produce it with a smooth surface finish that does not show the production process toolpath
    • Use it to cast parts
    • Document the process

    Images/Files:

  • Include your original design files
    • Properly compress or use a zip folder if needed
    • Include hero shots of your results

Resources and Helpful Links

Learning Outcomes

  • Design appropriate objects within the limitations of your process
  • Demonstrate workflows used in mold design, construction and casting

Introduction


This week was definitely my favorite week so far and the most delicious! I worked with a variety of materials this week including some really unique ones! I also worked with a variety of mold making processes which was a lot of fun.

My only downside to this week was learning I am alergic, or seceptable, to the epoxy resin we use in the lab. I have used UV resin before and didnt seem to have the breathing issues I had with the epoxy resin, but my guess is their is some chemical difference between the two types.

Overall though, this was one of my favorite weeks to date!

Molding and Casting in Smooth-Sil 940


As a group we tested out a variety of different mold making rubber materials. Each of us took a different material and we all casted the same 3d printed gear design. The goal was to have the same design in each of the different materials so we could compare and contrast the outcome.

My 3D printed gear casted in Smooth-Sil 940


I worked with Smooth Sil- 940 MSDS
  • Notes from the Part A MSDS
    • Safety Precautions:
    • Wear gloves to avoid contact with skin
    • Use soapy water to wash hands after use
    • Don't eat it
    • Don't get it in your eyes
    • Goggles suggested for eye protection
    • General Notes:
    • This material is safe to handle once fully cured
    • This material can be used for food applications once cured
      • Notes from the Part B MSDS
        • Safety Precautions:
        • Wear gloves to avoid contact with skin
        • Use soapy water to wash hands after use
        • Don't eat it
        • Don't get it in your eyes
        • Goggles suggested for eye protection
        • General Notes:
        • This data sheet was essentially the same as the Part A MSDS


            Since we each had some leftovers of our mold making material ready, I decided to grab random objects around the lab for us to make additional casts. I grabbed some lego’s and kinex pieces, random small objects left on the table, and as a funny idea I grabbed one of the last little pretzels from the bin I was getting ready to toss. I cast my pretzel in my leftover Smooth-SIL 940 and waited to see what happened.

            A pretzel casted in Smooth-Sil 940


            While we were at Dorians house, besides the chocolate, she also had a pot ready with melted beeswax we could use to cast with as well. I cleaned out my gear and pretzel mold and I casted a pretzel out of the beeswax! It was a little tricky to demold and I was afraid I was going to break the beeswax cast at first, but slowly and surely I was able to get the wax pretzel out of the mold!



            A pretzel made of Beeswax


            It actually came out really clear and close up you can even see where their was some little salt crystals on the original pretzel!

            Since my Smooth-SIL 940 is also food grade safe, I decided to cast the gear in chocolate too!

            A gear made of chocolate


  • Molding and Casting Chocolate


    Dorian was the true star of this week!

    Dorian welcomed our group to her house so we could learn how to do mold and casting with chocolate! Dorian had her chocolate tempering machine set up and a big batch of chocolate ready to go.

    Tempered Chocolate, ready to use


    She showed us how to use a variety of molds including Star Wars silicon molds and a multipart chocolate mold. The Star Wars molds were single part molds that we poured the chocolate into.

    Kim and I filling out Star Wars molds


    We used a spatula to remove the excess off the top and we tapped the mold to release air bubbles. Once filled, the molds were placed in the fridge for the chocolate to cool and harden.

    Star Wars chocolates


    While the Star Wars molds were in the fridge, we moved onto the multipart professional chocolate molds.

    These molds were either a 2 or 3 part mold depending on the style. The one I used was a two part mold that held together with magnets. To start, we chose an edible decorative sheet to place in the bottom of the mold.

    Then we slowly poured the chocolate into the molds to fill them.

    Filling the professional molds


    Once filled, unlike the Star Wars ones, we had to slowly tip all the excess chocolate out.

    Tipping the professional molds


    These molds are designed to create hollow chocolates that can be filled.

    Professional mold ready for the fridge


    Once I removed as much as I could from the mold by tapping it was time to set the chocolate. While the chocolate was setting we prepared the homemade caramel filling Dorian made for us to use. Camille also prepped some marshmallow fluff to fill some of her molds with.

    Dorian showing us the proper way to use an icing bag


    After about 20-30 minutes, it was time to fill our hollow chocolates and add the top layer of chocolate to close the mold. I was a bit messy during this entire process but it was a lot of fun.

    I am a messy chocolatier


    With the chocolate filled and closed it was time to go back in the fridge to set the filling and top layer. Demolding the chocolates was as easy as flipping the mold upside down and tapping out the chocolates. At first I was afraid to tap on the mold hard, but Dorian assured me that a good tap or knock is completely fine!

    Chocolates ready to be demolded
    Chocolates being demolded


    I was so impressed with how they looked (and tasted) once they were done. I am so greatful for Dorian opening her home this week and sharing her talents with us!

    Look at these amazing chocolates!


    Molding and Casting with Clay


    This was another really exciting part of the week for me! I find playing with clay to be a lot of fun and I find it to be a great material to work with. For this part of mold and casting week I did two clay projects. The first was I made my own bead rolling molds and the second was creating a mold to use with Silver Clay.

    Bead Rolling Molds


    For the bead roller molds, I saw one being used online and it made me curious. Bead rolling molds are unique two part molds used to create round objects. Unlike a traditional two part mold that you fill though, these types of molds work a bit differently.

    Bead Mold Parts
    Bead Mold I made
    Bead Molds I made


    You place a ball of clay in the center of the elongated two part mold. Once the clay is in the center you slide the two mold parts back and forth to shape the clay object.

    Bead Mold Sliding Example


    This is actually a really cool concept, because anything you can make with a revolve tool, in 3D modeling, can be turned into one of these molds. This creates a really cool visual artifact that can be created along side the typical revolve tool Fusion projects.

    Plus, its really fun to slide the molds back and forth.

    A variety of finisged shapes from my bead rollers


    Molding and Casting with Clay


    Silver Clay Casting


    For the final part of my mold and casting week, I had the opportunity to work with Silver Clay as a casting material. Silver Clay is essentially silver powder mixed with a clay material binder. When fired in a kiln, the binder material is fired off and you are left with just the silver.

    I was gifted a 50 gram bag of Art Clay Silver Clay last year. I purposly held onto it to try for this weeks mold and casting project. Since 50gs doesn't seem like a lot, I decided I wanted to do something small like a pendant or earrings. I decided on making a design and casting two if possible to make earrings but if not I would use the same design for a pendant.

    The hardest decision for this was figuring out what I wanted to cast in silver. Like a stroke of fate, I actually found a beautiful Luna Moth in the stairwell in my apartment complex.

    A luna moth I found at my apartment


    It inspired me to create a luna moth design for my pendant/earrings.

    I found a clipart style reference image on the internet and used TinkerCAD to create my luna moth design.

    Luna moth reference image
    Luna moth design in TinkerCAD


    How it was made:


    I created the base sketch using the Extrude Sketch tool.

    Sketch Tool icon


    I drew out the points roughly based off of the clipart reference image. Then converted the points to rounded edges. I fine tuned the design using the vertice Handles allowing me control over the shape of my curves.

    How the main body looks in TinkerCAD


    I used these controls to make the left and right side of the month as even as I could. I wasn't super strict on this since things in nature are not always perfectly symmetrical. It wasn't perfect but visually at the small scale it looks great.

    I used this base design to make all of the other pieces by copy and pasting the sketch and modifying the vertices. For pieces like the wings, I made one side the way I liked it by deleting all of the extra vertices on the month and shaping the ones I kept. To keep the left and right symmetrical I would copy the piece I edited and use the Mirror tool to make a mirrored copy for the other side.

    The different parts made in TinkerCAD


    Test Printing my Design


    Since the Silver Clay is expensive, and I only have 50g total to work with, I wanted to make sure my design was not using a large amount of the clay. I test print my moth design in a variety of wing span sizes ranging from .5in to about 3in and with thicknesses between 1/16 and 1/4in.

    Prints in various sizes


    I narrowed down my size to a wig span of 2in and a height of 1.5in. For the thickness, I liked the thickness of 1/8in but I realized that at 1/4in the small details were more pronounced. Since the design is going to shrink potentially up to 20% during firing I decided to go with the thicker, more pronounced version.

    Making my Mold


    For the mold making process, I tested a couple options before deciding to cast in silicone rubber. My first thought was to make the mold out of PLA on my 3D printer. I printed my mold in a few different sizes to gauge moth size and how much clay I would need.

    3D printed molds for sizing


    This was a helpful test in the fact that I was severely over estimating my clay usage, but the hard mold was really difficult to remove the soft clay without deforming it.

    I also tried letting the clay partially harden before removal, in hopes the shrinkage would help demold it, but my patience got the better of me. I did not let the clay sit long enough, so when I demolded it, the smaller/thinner parts broke off. I used this information to actually help do some minor redesigns on my moth.

    Visibly these changes are not really noticeable, but I widened the thinnest part of the bottom of the wings, I enlarged the head where I plan to add the earring hole, I thickened the entire body, and I cut the lines into the body instead of having them pop out. These are all really small details that I think will help create a stronger and overall more successful cast in silver.

    Changes to my design based on my testing observations


    With my updated design, I printed two and cast them in the silicone. For this process, I hot glued each piece to the bottom of a paper cup. To make it easier to see and handle the cup, I took a scissor and cut the top half of the cup off, leaving me with a shallow cup to work with.

    Casting in a cup


    I used the ___________ and let it sit overnight to fully cure. The next morning I removed my 3D printed moths from the mold and cleaned up the edges of the mold using angled snippers. Since I am using a clay and not a liquid material to fill the mold I wanted to be able to clearly see the edges so I can easily smoosh the clay into the small corners.

    Practice Testing the Molds with regular clay


    Before my final test with the expensive silver clay, I did a test with inexpensive play dough. I wanted to see two things from this test.
    How much clay is used in the mold.

    How well the details show up in the clay.
    My excitement was hard to contain, but I let the play dough sit for about 20 minutes. After 20 minutes it was starting to get hardened/rubbery. To speed up the process I popped the play dough and mold in the freezer for about 5 minutes.

    The 5 minute timer either wasn't enough or play dough just isnt a great sample material. The clay broke into a bunch of pieces while demolding. However I did collect all of the pieces to weigh, so not a complete waste of time.

    Play dough removed from my mold
    The play dough from the mold on a scale


    This failure led me to the art teacher who offered me better clay options to test with. I also decided to try somthing to help with demolding. I decided to take some excess clay and flatten it around the top of the mold. My thought process was that id have something easier to pull off and I could always trim the excess clay away.

    Foam dough successful cast


    This test went exceptionally well!

    Time to Cast in Silver!


    After having a successful cast with traditional style clays I felt confident in my mold. I took out my silver clay and kneaded it between my fingers to help warm it up and make it more elastic. This was a trick I learned from my research online about this clay. The packaging process can sometimes make the clay feel hardened, so kneading it until its elastic is required to make it usable.

    I put my clay in my molds and waited about 10 minutes. The clay has a working time of around 30 minutes. I wanted to let it have some time to firm up but not fully harden so I could trim and reuse the extra around the edges.

    I used my fingers and some clay tools from the art teacher to clean up the edges a bit and placed it on a flat surface to finish firming up.

    Fire Time! The art teacher is helping me fire the clay in the kiln at the school very soon. I am really excited to see how this turns out. Final picture coming soon!

    Week 14 Files


    In my repo is a zip folder containing files for my week 14.
    What files are inside my Folder:
  • An example of one of my bead rollers
  • The gear file used for my groups casting project Download My Week 14 Project Files Zip Folder