Week 12

Molding and Casting

Fab Academy 2024
Riichiro Yamamoto



Dear My Friend

This we got introduced to Molding and Casting. I did this week very quickly because I wanted to focus on developing my final project. Therefore I cast a very small and simple shape but it was still challenging for me to get my head around the conversion between positive and negative.

Hope you enjoy

Riichiro Yamamoto

Group Assignment

this week's group assignment was to review the safety data sheets for each of your molding and casting materials, then make and compare test casts with each of them compare printing vs machining molds.


Here is the link to the group assignment page
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Negative & Positive

For this week’s assignment, I decided to make knobs for the potentiometers which I used in Week 11 Input Device for this motor driver ( Allegro MicroSystems A4953ELJTR-T )

The basic workflow of molding and casting that I did is below

  1. Create a 3D model of object (positive)
  2. Create a 3D model of a mold of the object (negative)
  3. Create a 3D model of a mold of the mold (positive)
  4. Mill the mold of the mold (positive)
  5. Cast the mold (negative)
  6. Cast the object (positive)



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3D Modelling

3D model of object (positive)

First I made a 3D model of the knobs in Rhino. A few things I needed to be careful of any overhang shapes and long straight vertical shapes, because the machine would not be able to mill. Also, I needed to take into account the diameter and length of the end mill.

My cast object needed to have a small hole, which allowed the potentiometer to be connected to it. However the hole is smaller than the diameter of the endmill, so I modified it as big as the diameter of the end mill.

I was advised to create a mold for the outer shape of the nobs and a cap that goes on top of the mold with a part that makes holes.

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3D model of a mold of the object (negative)

Then I continue in Rhino to create a 3d model of a mold around the object. I needed to be careful of having more than 5mm offset from the object. Also, I was advised to make the surface of the box slightly angled (more than a 1.5mm difference) to make it easier to demold.

My tutor shows me some useful commands for this task.

  • Bounding Box: to create a box around an object
  • Ctrl+Shift+Left Click: to select only a part of an object.
Then, I modelled a box with measurements from the waxing wax block. Next, I simply did a boolean difference between the mold and the box to create a mold of the mold.



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ModelaPlayer4

After the modelling, I exported the mold of mold as an STL file and opened it with a software called ModelaPlayer4 to prepare a file for milling. I will explain the workflow step by step below.

  1. Import a STL file
  2. Use the Compass button to set Origin to button left upper corner
  3. Material to Modeling Wax
  4. Modeling Form, Set all margins to 0
  5. Option, Add/Remove Tool, Create a new tool (Name: 1-8inch, Type: Square, Material: High-Speed Steel, Diameter: 3.18mm)
  6. * If it doesn't allow 3.18mm, go to Preference, and check if it is set for SRM-20
  7. Cutting Parameter, Set Parameters, Register, Close
  8. Do the same process for ball end mill


  9. New Process: Roughing
  10. Cutting surface: Top
  11. Tool, 1-8inch Square
  12. Cutting Area: Partial, set area by window or number
  13. Tool Path Type: Contour Line
  14. Cutting Parameters: automatically filled,(If you want to make it faster set the Cutting-in Amount to 1.2mm but not more than that)
  15. Name tool path, and create tool path


  16. New Process: Finishing
  17. Cutting surface: Top
  18. Tool, 1-8inch Square or Ball
  19. Cutting Area: Partial, set it the same as Roughing
  20. Tool Path Type: Scan Line X, (if you want to make a higher resolution use X+Y or create another finishing with Y separately so that you can decide after when milling)
  21. Cutting Parameters: automatically filled
  22. Name tool path, and create tool path


  23. Check the tool path with a visualiser
  24. Cut, check Output to file and save all the files

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Problem

With the normal setting, the software was not making a tool path for the small hole, so my tutor advised me to do another roughing only the area around the hole and set the Fnish Margin to 0mm. This method is useful but it didn't make a tool path because the hole is exactly the same width as the diameter of the endmill. Then I made the hole slightly bigger than the diameter of the end mill, and the software was able to make a tool path for the hole.



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Milling Molding Wax

Roland SRM-20 was set up for milling Molding Wax. The preparation is almost exactly the same as milling PCB in Week4 Electronics Production

I made the mistake of setting the endmill too short even though I have a quite deep tool path. I realised this mistake when the machine needed to make an emergency stop because the spindle was pressed against the material. To fix this I set the end mill longer, re-did the Z-axis origin and milled Again

As a result, the milling was done nicely with Roughing and Finishing X. I think I should have done Finishing Y for more resolution because some surface patterns were not visible on the Y side.



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Casting Silicone

For casting mold, I used normal silicone for the outer shape and fast silicone for the cap, because the cap needed to be a little stronger to hold the thin parts.

Both of them were 1A:1B ratios and measured by weight. For both, I used a vacuum chamber to reduce air bubbles as much as possible. For the thin hole, I used a needle to get rid of the silicone. As a result, the mold for the outer shape was done nicely, but the thin hole part still had bubbles and did not cast properly, so I did it again.

For the second trial, I used a wooden stick to scoop and pour very thin. The result was successful.



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Casting Acrylic Cast

For casting the object, I used Acrystal Prima + Basic Crystal The mixing ratio was 2.5A:1B. I poured it slowly and carefully closed the mold with the cap.

The result was ok. I could see tiny traces of some bubbles on the surface but it was not too far from how I imagined. However, the size of the holes is either too loose or too tight. I ended postprocessing to make it fit into the potentiometer. To be honest, for this kind of object which it requires detail and precision, I think it would be easier to achieve it with 3D Printing. (But I still enjoyed this week that I also did the same cast with a red-ish pigment just for fun.)



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