Week 13

Molding and Casting

Overview:

This week I explored materials for creating moulds and casts. I will also explore desiging my own mold and test various materials to create casts.

Understanding Moulding and Casting

Molding (Moulding) and casting is a fabrication method used to reproduce the shape of an object. Molding refers to creating a hollow within a material that captures the geometry and outer details of the original. Casting is the process of introducing a liquid material into that form, allowing it to solidify, and then removing it from the molded material to produce a duplicate. This approach is widely applied in manufacturing, prototyping, and artistic production due to its precision and versatility.

Whether manufacturing components for business or producing detailed prototypes and replicas, it enables accurate and repeatable duplication of objects. For this week of Fab Academy, I focused on the core concepts behind the process, including preparing a model digitally, designing an effective mold, and producing a finished cast that captures the original design goals.

A few things are really important in this process. Avoiding undercuts is one of the most important, in my opinion. Undercuts are features that prevent the object from being removed cleanly from the mold, often leading to damage to the mold during demolding. Proper geometry ensures the model can be extracted without resistance. Undercut geometries tend to lock the part in place causing a LOT of resistance. Another consideration to keep in mind is draft angles. Draft angles are small tapers applied to vertical surfaces which provied successful mold releases. Draft angles reduce friction and allow the model or the final cast once casted to cleanly be removed.

Once the model design is completed with undercuts and draft angles considered, the mold fabrication can begin using subtracive or additive processes. One subtractive process is CNC milling and one additive process is 3d printing. With CNC milling, the design that will be filled with liquid is removed from a material, like wax. With 3D printing, the mold's entire shape is printed out using a 3d printer and filament, leaving open areas where liquid will be poured.

Assignment: Group Assignment 1. Review the safety data sheets for each of your molding and casting materials 2. Make and compare test casts with each of them 3. Compare printing vs milling molds

Individual Assignment 1. Design a mold around the process you will be using. 2. Produce it with a smooth surface finish that does not show the production process toolpath. 3. Use it to cast parts.

Group Assignment

Steps 1. Step 1 2. Step 2

Molding Materials

To create my first mold I will be using Smooth On

Casting Materials

I will be casting using a 3D printed copy of my final project created using Fusion 360

Mold Desining & Milling: Fusion 360 & Roland - Will explore if tine permits

Steps 1. Step 1 2. Step 2

Mold Desining & 3d Printing: Fusion 360 & Prusa 3d Printing

Steps

Step 1: Create the Main Box * Sketch: Create a new sketch on the Top Plane. * Rectangle: Draw a Center Rectangle from the origin: 95mm x 85mm * Extrude: Press E and extrude it upward by 60mm. * Fillet: Press F. Select the four vertical corner edges and give them a 10mm radius to make it handheld-friendly.

Fusuon360Design
Adding Filets to the Cube

Step 2: The LCD and Button Cutouts - Sketch on Top Face: Select the top surface of your block and create a new sketch. - LCD Window: Draw a Center Rectangle near the top half: 72mm x 25mm (this is the visible area of a 1602 LCD). - Button Holes: Draw two circles (diameter 7mm) below the LCD window where you want your "Advance" buttons to sit. - Extrude Cut: Press E, select the rectangle and circles, and extrude downward by -5mm (this creates the indentations for your cast).

Fusuon360Design
Under Construction
I adjusted the placement of my buttons to be on the right side of the console

Step 3: Add the Draft Angle (CRITICAL for Molding) - Go to Modify > Draft. - Pull Direction: Select the Top Face. - Faces: Select the four side faces of your box. - Angle: Set to -2 degrees. You should see the bottom of the box get slightly wider than the top. - Change the Draft Sides to Symmetric - Click OK

Fusuon360Design
Under Construction

Step 4: Create the Interior Cavity (The "Void") - Shell Command: Go to Modify > Shell. - Select the BOTTOM face of the block. - Inside Thickness: Set to 3mm. This hollows out the inside so your electronics have a home.

Fusuon360Design
Under Construction
4. I noticed that my button and LCD areas are not completely hollow. I rotated back to the top down view, selected the buttons and LCDs, Pressed E (extrude) and chose a depth that I knew would clear the area (-7mm).
Fusuon360Design
Under Construction
I checked the measurements and noticed that the width wouldn't fit my components. To fix this I scaled. * Go to Modify > Scale. * Selection: Click your console body. * Scale Type: Change from "Uniform" to Non-Uniform. * X Distance (Width): Calculate the factor (95/75 = 1.267). Type 1.267 into the X field. * Y and Z Distance: Keep these at 1.0 so you don't change the height or length. I also needed to correct the height of my console. * Press Q (Press Pull). * Select the bottom face of the console. * Type -20mm (negative twenty) and hit Enter.
Fusuon360Design
Under Construction

Step 5: Export for Printing * In the Browser on the left, right-click your Component or Body. * Select Save as Mesh (or Export > STL). * Set Refinement to High. * Open in your slicer (Cura/PrusaSlicer) and start the print!

Step 6: PRUSA Slicing The time frame if 6 hours 56 minutes is a bit long. I explored options.

Fusuon360Design
Under Construction

Step 7: How to Half-Scale the Model * I had to change the Design type from part design to hybrid design in order to create a separate copy. * Steps for Paste New * Right-click the body in the browser tree and select "Create Components from Bodies". * Right-click component from the browser tree. * Select "Copy". * Deselect components by clicking outside the browser tree in the workspace of Fusion. * Right-click the workspace of Fusion. * Select "Paste New". * The Move arrows will come up, move the second component away from the original

Fusuon360Design
Under Construction
* Go to Modify > Scale. * Selection: Click on the second console body (or select it from the browser on the left). * Point: Select a corner of the model or the center origin. This is the "anchor" point it will shrink toward. * Scale Type: Ensure this is set to Uniform. * Scale Factor: Type 0.5.
Fusuon360Design
Under Construction
* Click OK. * Next I measured the shell thickness to double check if scaling made any adjustments. In order to do this properly, I used the inspect tool and made sure to click on the outer face and interior face to get the correct measurement. Clicking on the edges or lines can give false results or confusing results. My shell is now 1.5mm which is too thin for my project.
Fusuon360Design
Under Construction

Moulding

Steps

Creating the Mold was a pretty interesting process for me. I needed to focus on the amount of time I would have in order to set my 3d print in the mold and allow time for setting. I realized my 3d print was going to take too long at it's "final project" size. My initial attempt to print the "final project" size was a fail.
Fusuon360Design
Interior Support Fail
After the initial print failed, I decided to save time by printing the half scale model instead to prototype the molding process. Honestly, the failed print looked pretty good once the interior was removed and I decided to repuropose it later in my project
Fusuon360Design
Final Project Size Repurposed
Thankfully, the half scale model printed well and I was ready to move forward to setting up the molding station and begin the casting process.
Fusuon360Design
Half Scale Success
Next, I had to figure out how to make sure my half scale mold did not fill up on the interior with silicone. I was using a nail buffer to smooth out the interior of my half scale mold and noticed that it was pretty much the size of the half scale model's interior. I decided to cut it down to fit perfectly. Since the nail buffer is pourous I decided to wrap the buffer in packaging tape.
Fusuon360Design
Half Scale Buffer Fill
Fusuon360Design
Half Scale Buffer Fill Front Side
It was finally time for me to be able to set up the 3d print to be poured over and around. I am repurposing a small amazon shipping cardboard box and the 'failed" final print from above. I began by adhearing the half scale print to the interior of the carboard box using double sided tape and a caulking method using a hot glue gun. My caulking skills can definitely use sone work but I was pretty confident in the security of the 3d print as relates to the cardboard. (If you look in the next Selection you will see the repurposed final project sized 3d print).
Fusuon360Design
Half Scale attached to carboard

Casting

Steps

It was finally time for me to start mixing my smooth on and pouring the silicone around my 3d print. I was really excited to get this poured as the setting time would be overnight and I'd be waking to a huge success or a beautiful disaster. I am wearing gloves for safety. In the background you can see how I repurposed the "failed 3D Print" and where the half scale 3d print is positioned within it in relation to the carboard box.
Fusuon360Design
2-part Silicone Mix
Sadly, once poured I could already see that I might be facing a few issues. Around my caulked edges, you can see that I am already beginning to loose a bit of my precious silicone mix. This photo does not show my frantic attempt to add more "caulking" glue around the edges in an attempt not to loose volume. Unfortunately I ran out of Silicone and could not add more to the top. Because of this, I went to bed worrie that I'd wake up to a HUGE pool of silicone surrounding my molding and casting set up. A few bubbles appeared that I popped with a tooth pick. I set the entire set up on a plastic bag and went to sleep.
Fusuon360Design
SERIOUS seepage almost immediately
I dreamed of a tsunami of silicone after a horrific earthquake. I awoke to something less dramatic but disappointing.

Final Results

Results of Smooth On Silicone over 3d Printed Half Scale Mold

When I woke up, I rushed to my in home lab to check on the final results. To my disappointment, there was even MORE seepage than when I went to bed. I could also tell immediately that there was barely any silicone left on the top of the 3D print. Clearly, my 3d print was not encampsulated and I could tell around the edges that I lost at least 3mm of silicone to seepage. I removed the piece from the larger carboard box to observe the seepage.

Fusuon360Design
SERIOUS seepage the next morning
I was able to remove the mold and cast system from the carboard pretty easily and wanted to see how much seepage was also possibly within the half scale model or even within the halfscale model.
Fusuon360Design
The Undercarage
I couldnt really tell how bad it was because of the semi transluscent color of the silicone and needed to go ahead and attempt to remove it for a better look. It was very easy to separate the silicone from the outer 3D mold by gently pulling.
Fusuon360Design
removing the silicone
I was able to really see the issues when I removed the half scale 3D Print model. The seepage pretty much destroyed the point of the mold.
Fusuon360Design
YIKES
I am planning to place the half scale model inside again and try to pour over the top of it once i've been able to clear it off. Hopfully I will only need to ensure that there is more silicone over the top and correct the original issues.

Files

Copyright 2026 <Heaven Whitby> - Creative Commons Attribution Non Commercial

Source code hosted at gitlab.fabcloud.org