5. 3D scanning and printing
Group assignment:
LinkTask:
- Design, document, and 3D print an object that could not be made subtractively (small, few cm3, limited by printer time)
- 3D scan an object (and optionally print it)
3D Printing
This week I printed my design for a modular bottle. You can find how I modeled it in my 3D Modeling Week.
Installing and Setting Up
First, I downloaded UltiMaker Cura. To begin, I selected the option to add a Non-Ultimaker printer.
Then, I searched for the printer available in our lab, which is the Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro, and selected it.
After that, I imported the STL file by dragging it from my files into Cura. I scaled and rotated the model to position it the way I wanted for printing.
Next, I started editing my print settings. To open the settings panel, click where it says "Standard Quality."
Quality
I changed the Layer Height to 0.25 mm. My instructor recommended not exceeding 80% of the nozzle diameter.
In our lab, we use a 0.4 mm nozzle, so it is better not to surpass 0.32 mm layer height. For good quality, he recommended setting the layer height between 0.22 mm and 0.27 mm.
Walls
The number of walls determines how rigid your piece will be. In this case, I set the Wall Line Count to 2 because my piece was small.
Infill
For the infill density, our instructor recommended keeping it between 10%–20%. You can also experiment with different infill patterns depending on your needs.
Material
Here you can set the temperature according to the material you are using.
I used Generic PLA, so I set the temperature to 200°C, as recommended by our instructor.
To determine the appropriate temperature depending on the material, I found this page helpful: Simplify3D Materials Guide
You can find this information under the Extruder Temperature section.
Speed
To ensure good quality, our instructor recommended setting the speed between 60–100 mm/s.
Since I wanted the print to be faster, I set the speed to 100 mm/s.
Support
Some parts require support due to their geometry.
There are two types of supports:
- Tree supports
- Standard supports
I personally prefer tree supports because I find them easier to remove.
Build Plate Adhesion
To ensure your print turns out correctly and does not detach from the bed, it is recommended to use build plate adhesion.
There are three types:
- Skirt (mainly helps clean the nozzle)
- Brim (a thin outer layer for better adhesion)
- Raft (a solid base layer under the print)
For my print, I used Raft, since the structure was not very complicated.
Preview and Slicing
To see how your print will look, click "Preview."
If it does not work, you need to click "Slice" first.
In this section, you can see:
- The estimated printing time
- The grams of filament required
Printing Process
After slicing, I saved the G-code file onto a micro SD card and inserted it into the printer.
I calibrated the machine using a Post-it note. To do this, I ensured the Post-it moved with slight resistance between the nozzle and the build plate.
Finally, I pressed play, and the machine started printing.
Final result