3D Scanning and Printing

Group Assignment

As part of our group assignment, we explored and tested the 3D printers available in our lab to better understand their capabilities, limitations, and differences. We have both FDM and SLA printers. Among FDM, we specifically tested two Creality models: the Ender 3 S1 Pro and the Ender 3 V3 KE. For SLA, we ran high-detail resin prints to compare surface finish and precision.

This hands-on activity helped us test:

1. Tolerances between parts

2. Overhangs and bridging without support

3. Surface quality with different speeds

4. Bed adhesion and first-layer quality

5. The impact of settings like speed, cooling, and retraction

A. Comparison: Ender 3 S1 Pro vs Ender 3 V3 KE

(Student-use focused with technical details)

Aspect	Ender 3 S1 Pro	Ender 3 V3 KE
Print Speed	Slower (avg. 60–100 mm/s), safer for detail.	Super fast (up to 500 mm/s) — ideal for tight deadlines.
Auto Bed Leveling	CR Touch – works fine, sometimes manual tweaks needed.	Upgraded and quicker – more beginner-friendly.
Motion System	Standard XYZ – simple but not built for speed.	CoreXZ – smoother, faster movement, less vibration.
User Interface	Basic touchscreen – takes time to get used to.	Modern UI – fast, easy to use during class hours.
First Layer Reliability	Needs close watch; a bad start means restarting.	More consistent first layer, even if rushed.
Nozzle & Max Temp	All-metal hotend (up to 300°C) – good for ABS, Nylon.	Brass nozzle (max 260°C) – great for PLA, PETG, TPU.
Cooling Fans	Basic cooling – okay for standard prints.	Dual fans – excellent for small details and overhangs.
Assembly Time	Semi-assembled – takes time to build and learn.	Pre-assembled – ready to print in 20–30 mins.
Noise Levels	Moderate — can get loud on long prints.	Very quiet — can run while working/studying.
Filament Support	PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS – handles a wide range.	PLA, PETG, TPU – avoid high-temp materials.
Best Use Case	Functional prints, stronger parts, learning fine control.	Rapid prototypes, low-maintenance use, design iterations.

B. What We Learned as a Group

Speed vs Quality: The Ender 3 V3 KE prints much faster but might sacrifice a bit of accuracy if not tuned right. The S1 Pro is slower but gives high-quality output, especially for detailed or functional parts.

Ease of Use: The V3 KE is very beginner-friendly — it helped us focus on design iterations instead of machine tweaking. The S1 Pro made us understand 3D printing deeply — nozzle temps, layer tuning, and material behavior.

Group Assignment Link

Individual Assignment

A. Additive 3D Printing

What is Additive Manufacturing?

3D printing isn’t just magic—it’s a type of additive manufacturing, meaning we build objects layer by layer instead of cutting them out from a solid block.

Why Additive and Not Subtractive?

• Less waste – Uses only the material needed

• Complex shapes – Can print hollow, intricate, and organic forms

• Lightweight but strong – Thanks to smart infill patterns

• Customizable – Modify designs on demand without new molds!

Unlike subtractive methods (CNC milling, carving, etc.), where you remove material, 3D printing adds material only where needed—making it perfect for futuristic, intricate, and efficient designs!

B. Layer by Layer – Additive 3D Printing of a Lalten

1.The Idea – Inspired by the Lalten

For this assignment, I wanted to design something that couldn’t be made subtractively, meaning it had to be built layer by layer rather than carved from a solid block.

I took inspiration from the traditional Indian lalten—a classic oil lantern once used in homes before electricity was widespread. My goal? To reimagine it in a modern, 3D-printed form using additive manufacturing.

Now, let’s break down how I designed, sliced, and printed this lamp step by step!

2.Designing the Model in Fusion 360

Before anything prints, it must exist in the digital world first! Here’s how I built the model using Fusion 360:

Step-by-Step Fusion 360 Modeling

Exported as STL and ready for slicing!

3.Prepping for the Print – Slicing Like a Pro!

Before we hit ‘print,’ we need to slice the 3D model into printable layers—like slicing bread 🍞, but digitally.

Exporting & Checking the 3D Model

Format: STL (Standard Triangle Language)

Software: Creality

Material Used: PLA Filament (black)

Printer In Action: Ender 3 V3 KE printer

Checked for errors:

• No holes or floating edges (non-manifold geometry!)

• Wall thickness at least 0.6 mm for strength

• Optimized mesh—not too dense, not too low-poly

Slicing it Up – The Digital Chef’s Recipe

Setting	Value	Why it Matters
Layer Height	0.2 mm	Balances speed & quality
Infill Pattern	Gyroid (or honeycomb)	Strong but lightweight!
Infill Density	18%	Enough strength without wasting material
Print Speed	50 mm/s	Not too fast, not too slow
Nozzle Temp	200°C	Just right for PLA
Bed Temp	60°C	Helps prevent warping
Cooling Fan Speed	100%	Keeps the layers crisp and clean!
Support Type	Tree Supports (if needed)	Less waste, easy removal!
Brim/Raft	Brim (3 mm)	Helps with adhesion and prevents curling

Generate G-Code and export it to printer vis SD Card or USB.

4.Printing Time – Watching the Magic Happen!

Now we sit back, relax, and watch molten plastic become a lamp! But wait—there’s some monitoring to do!

Setting Up the Printer

• Bed Cleaning: Make sure there are no previous residues on the print bed.

• Bed Leveling: Manually adjusted or used auto-bed leveling—because no one likes a wobbly first layer!

Filament Loaded: Inserted the PLA filament into the extruder, ensuring:

• No tangles

• Filament tip cut at 45° for smooth flow

• Filament primed by extruding a little before starting the print

Monitoring the Print

• Always keep an eye on the printer until it finishes calibration to ensure proper leveling and a perfect first layer.

• First 5–10 layers are crucial—if they fail, the whole thing fails!

C. 3D Printing on Fabric- What could go wrong?

So, I and my friend, Sohan had this idea—why not print directly on fabric? Sounds exciting, right? loaded up the printer, grabbed some silk PLA, and picked out two different fabrics: one thick and one lightweight. The goal? Print the word "FAB" onto the fabric by pausing the print after 8 layers, placing the fabric down, and then continuing the print so the letters fused with it.

Simple plan. But did it work? Nope. At least, not on the first try.

My friend and I explored 3D printing on fabric together! Check out their experience https://fabacademy.org/2025/labs/riidl/students/sohan-suryawanshi/

Step 1: Setting Things Up

Everything started smoothly. I designed the letters, sliced the file, and added a pause in the G-code after 8 layers. Confident in my setup, I placed my thick fabric on the print bed, assuming it would work just fine.

I hit print, watched as the first few layers were laid down perfectly, and waited for the pause. So far, everything seemed to be going according to plan.

Step 2: The First Fail

The printer paused as expected. I placed the fabric, resumed the print, and… disaster.

• The nozzle pressed into the fabric – The printer didn’t lift the Z-axis after the pause, so it kept printing at the same height, smushing filament into the cloth instead of layering on top.

• Thick fabric/Too thin fabric = bad idea – The print had no chance of sticking properly. The fabric was too textured, so the PLA just sat awkwardly on top, not fusing at all. For thin fabric, melted PLA burnt strings of fabric.

• The fabric moved – Since I hadn’t secured it properly, it shifted slightly, misaligning the next layers.

At this point, I knew I had to rethink my approach.

Step 3: What I Learned & How to Fix It

✔ Use thinner fabric – Something like silk or mesh works way better than thick cloth.

✔ Modify the G-code – Before resuming, the Z-axis needs to move up slightly so the nozzle doesn’t press into the fabric.

✔ Secure the fabric properly – Tape it down or use clips so it doesn’t move mid-print.

✔ Try different adhesion settings – A brim or tweaking bed temperature might help the filament bond better.

D. Things Kept in Mind Throughout the Process!

Here are some key considerations to ensure a smooth 3D printing experience, from design to post-processing:

1️. Design & Preparation

• Wall thickness matters – Too thin, and it may break; too thick, and it may waste material.

• Avoid overhangs >45° – Supports will be needed, adding post-processing work.

• Check tolerances for moving parts – Ensure proper clearances to avoid tight fits.

• Export in the correct format (STL/OBJ) – Improper exports can cause slicing errors.

2️. Slicing & Printer Setup

• Layer height affects detail – Lower height (e.g., 0.1mm) gives smoother prints but takes longer.

• Infill percentage impacts strength – 20-30% is standard; more for functional parts.

• Bed leveling is crucial – Uneven beds lead to adhesion problems and failed prints.

• Use the right temperature – PLA prints best at 190-220°C, ABS needs 230-250°C.

3️. Printing Process

• Don't leave prints unattended – If something goes wrong, it can cause major failures.

• Watch for first-layer adhesion issues – A bad first layer leads to a failed print.

• Cooling fans affect quality – PLA likes fans on, ABS needs fans off for better adhesion.

• Check for stringing & blobs – Adjust retraction settings if needed.

4️. Post-Processing

• Over-sanding can weaken thin parts – Be gentle with fine details.

• Heat guns can warp delicate prints – Keep a safe distance while smoothing.

• Glue selection matters – Use super glue for PLA, acetone for ABS.

• Test fit all parts before final assembly – Avoid alignment issues later.

E. 3D Scanning

For this assignment, I decided to explore photogrammetry—a process where you take many photos of an object from all angles and turn them into a 3D model. I used the Kiri Engine app on phone

Kiri Engine app and selected Photo Mode (Photogrammetry).

Set it to Auto Capture mode — this allowed it to automatically take images at regular intervals as I moved.

walked around the object in circles at different heights: eye level, slightly above, and slightly below.

It took some time. Downloaded the file and took it to blender to remove mesh and make file for 3d printing.

Overall, the model turned out detailed and recognizable!

Exported the cleaned model as .STL. Scaled the model down to fit the printer bed. Added support and a 0.2mm layer height on an Bamboo Printer with silk pla. Print time was around 1 hour 12 mins.

Eat & Print

This part of the 3D scanning week became unexpectedly fun and meaningful. My friend Sohan and I were sitting together during a rainy afternoon, enjoying a plate of vada pav and samosa from our campus canteen. As we were eating, the idea struck us — what if we scanned and printed the very food we were eating?

It felt like such a typical Mumbai moment — rains, street food, and a creative spark! So, we decided to work on this collaboratively.

object had a lot of texture (especially the crispy samosa), which made it ideal for scanning.

This little experiment made us realize how everyday objects and moments can turn into creative outputs with digital fabrication.

Hero Shot

Original Design Files

Additive Print Laltein

OBJ File Scanned