I started and placed the material that I will use to make my Drum and the molds to make my silicone pads. The material I will use is MDF and I will also use acrylic.
In the images that I show below it is the manufacture of my drum in the laser cutter Boss Laser LS 1630.

Picture LC1.0. Laser cutter Boss Laser LS 1630.




Picture LC1.1. I upload my files to the laser cutting software to start the cut.




-Here are the MDF files ready to cut int the lasercut machine: Drum-Files
-Here are the acrilic files ready to cut int the lasercut machine: Acrl-Files


Video LCV1.0. In this video i document the cut of first board that is the base of my drum.




Video LCV1.1. In this video I document the cut of the second board that is the acrylic board.


Video LCV1.2. In this video I document the cut of the third board that is the tops of my drum pads.




This pictures below is my final result of my cut.


Picture LC1.2. In this picture I show my Brand was i designed to this proyect.




Picture LC1.3. This are the holds when i passed the cables of the piezos to the PCB.




Picture LC1.4. In this picture show the first and second board final.




Picture LC1.5. In the place we I made my drum I dont have acrilyc of 5mm so I decided to made two boards of acrilyc. In this image below, I show all the boards that I made and put them in order as they would be to assemble my drum.




Picture LC1.6. In this picture I show my cut of my pedal.




Picture LC1.7. This is the acrylic window that goes in the PCB case.

Well, I really enjoyed this step because I personally like to do molding and casting. So I made my drum pads out of silicone. Because the silicone absorbs the sound of the hit and also increases the bounce of the club when hitting the pads.


I do a test of rebound and sound absorption for this I made a mold to make a pad to test my theory.


Picture ML1.0. I do the same as in the wildcard, brush all surfaces of the mold with vaseline. the mold is somewhat improvised just for testing.




Picture ML1.1.




Video ML1.0. Here are the test of my theory. My theory was fine and works perfectly.





In this step I molding the pads in silicon, so in the pictures bolow I show the process I have to fabricate the molds and the pads for my DrumKit.

=========== -PEDAL MOLD and PAD- ===========

In the picture below for the F8.0 to the F8.8 I show the fabriaction for the pedal mold and the silicon pad.


Picture ML2.0. I paste the lasercut pizes to build the mold.




Picture ML2.1. This the final view for my pedal pads.




Picture ML2.2. In this picture I show the silicon pad process.




Picture ML2.3. I have a secret mix. I used 100g or Silicon F-20 and 15g of the catalizer and 2g of ink. This mix have faster dry.




Picture ML2.4. This are the catalizer I used.




Picture ML2.5. So when I finish the mixture well, I pour it into the mold carefully covering the entire mold evenly.




Picture ML2.6. A normal drying lasts 6 to 8 hours but with my secret mixture I dry it in 3 hours. In the picture I show the top pad of my pedal.




Picture ML2.7. In this picture I show the bottom pad of my pedal. I decided to put a silicone pad on the base of the pedal because I wanted it to be non-slip and it worked.




Picture ML2.8. Pedal final view.

============ -DRUM MOLD and PAD- ============

In the picture below I show the fabriaction for the drum mold and the silicon pads.


Picture ML3.0. This are the two molds I have to fabricate the pads of silicone.




Picture ML3.1. In this image below I pour the silicone into the two molds and wait for it to dry and repeat the procedure, twice in the large mold and three times in the small mold.



Picture ML3.2. I wait to dry the silicone.




Picture ML3.3. Once dry, he took it out of the mold and cut off the excess.




Picture ML3.4. After checking that everything is fine, with the help of a dremel I cut the corresponding holes of the pads. So step to drill 5 holes.




Picture ML3.5. In the photo below I show when I put the bolts in the 5 holes.




Picture ML3.6. I join the mdf edge with their corresponding pads and attach the 5 bolts with 5 washers in the holes.




Picture ML3.7. In the image below, I show the pads in their respective places.




Picture ML3.8. In the image below I show the final result of my drums.

For the electronic I use EasyEDA to schematic and PCB my circuit. Below are the steps. But first I need to know the pin out of my attiny mega and my ISP conector


Pinout.1. This is the my ATMEGA 328 pinout.




Pinout.2. And this is the ISP pinout I used the & pin IDC.

-Electronics Componets I need to used-

Picture DMS1.0. In the picture below I search the componets I need to used in my PCB.




Picture DMS1.1. This are the componets I need to soldering into my PCB.




This are the list of material I need to build my all Drum.

Product name	Unit price	Units	Subtotal
ATMEGA 328 P-AU	s/.12.00	1	s/.12.00
2x3 Pin Conector	S/3.00	1	S/3.00
1x6 Pin Conector	S/3.00	1	S/3.00
AVRISPS6-SMD	S/2.00	1	S/2.00
LED 1206	S/1.00	2	S/2.00
RESISTORS 499R	S/1.00	2	S/1.00
CAPASITORS 0.1U	S/1.00	3	S/1.00
ED555 2DS	S/1.50	6	S/9.00
RESISTORS 1M	S/0.80	6	S/4.80
CRYSTAL 16MHZ	S/1.00	1	S/1.00
CAPASITORS 22pf	S/0.50	2	S/1.50
BUTTOM	S/2.00	1	S/2.00
RESISTOR 10K	S/1.00	1	S/1.00
MDF	S/15.00	6	S/90.00
SILICON F-20 PLUS	S/	1	S/
SILICON catalizer	S/	1	S/
MACHINABLE WAX	S/.	1	S/
TTL FT232	S/.17.00	1	S/.17.00
CELLULOSE PCB BOARD	S/.20.00	1	S/.20.00
TOTAL	-	38	S/167.30

============-. DESIGN THE PCB .-============

In EasyEDA I draw my schematic and trace my PCB circuit.


Picture DMS2.0. Here are my file of my schematic: Download.



Once I have finished making my schematic, I step to draw and trace my pcb.


Picture DMS2.1. This step was very difficult, because I had to think a lot and it was difficult to connect all the components correctly tracing the entire PCB in addition to creating a layout for my PCB.




Picture DMS2.2. This are the preview view of this PCB. This is the PCB that I mill and use on my drum.




-Export Gerber and open in FlatCAM

Once the trace of my PCB is finished, I export the Gerber files from EasyEDA. To later open them in FlatCAM, prepare my PCB for milling.


Picture DMS2.3. In the picture below I show my traced open in FlatCAM.




Picture DMS2.4. Traces





Picture DMS2.5. Outline





Picture DMS2.6. Holes





Here are the ready files to mill: Mill-Files

============-. MILLING THE PCB .-============

Picture DMS3.0. I open the roland mill software and configure it to mill the trace from my PCB.




Video FV2.0. First I mill the trace and used a endmill 1/64".




Picture DMS3.1.




Picture DMS3.2. I clean the dust with a brush and gently remove the dust from the milling to be able to see the result of the milling and if there is an error to correct it.




Picture DMS3.3. After cleaning the PCB I check that all the trace is fine.




Picture DMS3.4. I carefully checked the PCB and I see that the milling Trace went very well.




Picture DMS3.5. To mill the holes I change the endmill 1/64" to the 1/32".




Video FV2.1. Second I mill the holes.




Picture DMS3.6. In the image below I show you the holes.




Video FV2.2. Third I mill the outline.




Picture DMS3.7.




Picture DMS3.8. Once the milling is finished, I clean it with the brush.




Picture DMS3.9. With the help of a scalpel, clean some residues in the traces.




Picture DMS3.10. This are the final view of my PCB.




Video FV2.3. Once the total milling is finished, I use a multimeter to verify that all the traces are correct.

===========-. SOLDERING THE PCBB .-===========

Picture DMS4.0. The first componet to I solding is the Atmega328.




Picture DMS4.1.




Picture DMS4.2. Next I solding the other componets.




Picture DMS4.3. The holes where my TTL connection goes came out small so I decide to repair it using a dremell.




Picture DMS4.4. I fixed it.




Picture DMS4.5. Once my PCB is repaired I finish soldering all components.




Picture DMS4.6. This is the top of my PCB.




Picture DMS4.7. This is the back of my PCB.

- Debbuggin the PCB -

For this I burn bootloader code on the DRUM PCB.


Screenshot 1. Everything's alright. YEAH! Now my PCB is ready to uploaad the Code of the KMR-V1 Drum.

======-. PROGRAMING THE CODE-KMR-V1 .-======

Picture PrG.0. I adapted the code that Mark Demers used, 'copiwrite' 2009, to my KMR-V1 Drum.




Picture PrG.1.




-Here are the CODE-file: KMR-V1 CODE


Picture PrG.2. I upload to my PCB and incidentally I will test the communication with the respective software.