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This week I will be making an ISP (In-system programming) or in-circuit programmer.
I chose to do Brian's ISP. I chose it for its simplicity and cost as it is stripped down to a bare minimum of components.
The process will be split into phases: Milling, Stuffing/Populating, Debugging, Programming:
In this phase I will be using the following:
- I started by downloading the Traces (1000 dpi) and Outline Cutout (1000 dpi) of the circuit provided in Brian's tutorial.
I selected the option "image (.png)"
I chose the image file
Once the image is loaded, I selected "output format" and then "G-codes (.nc)"
In Process, I selected "PCB traces (1/64)"
Before calculating, I changed the cut depth to 0.05, half of the default value, as I was being a bit cautious.
Then I pressed calculate
After calculation, I proceeded with an inspection of the tool path to make sure that all traces were covered. By holding the left mouse button, I was able to move the image, and with the wheel button, I could zoom the image to better check the tool path.
By holding the right mouse button, I was even able to see it from a different perspective.
Lastly, I saved the file for the milling process.
For the outline, I followed the same steps as before, except I chose "PCB outline (1/32)" instead of traces.
I started preparing the CNC by milling a pocket the size of the blank PCB (76x50x1.5 mm).
Milling the pocket
Finished pocket
Gluing double-sided tape on the FR1 board
The end result is this.
Milling the cutout of one of the ISPs
Removing the PCB from the pocket.
I used a blade and sandpaper to remove shavings left from the milling process.
I removed the double-sided tape from the back of the PCB.
Based on the tutorial on Brian's ISP page, I started by creating a spreadsheet with the components and their positions.
|
Components |
Location |
Digikey or Mouser Part number |
Manufacturer Part # |
|
- ATtiny45 or ATtiny85 |
U1 |
ATTINY45V-10SUR |
|
|
- 2x 1kΩ resistors |
R1, R6 |
RC1206FR-071KL |
|
|
- 2x 499Ω resistors |
R2, R5 |
RC1206FR-07499RL |
|
|
- 2x 49.9Ω resistors |
R3, R4 |
RC1206FR-0749R9L |
|
|
- 2x 3.3V Zener diodes |
D1, D2 |
BZT52C3V3-7-F |
|
|
- 1x red LED |
D4 |
LTST-C150CKT |
|
|
- 1x green LED |
D3 |
LTST-C230TBKT |
|
|
- 1x 100nF/0.1uF capacitor |
C1 |
C1206C104KARACTU |
|
|
- 1x 2x3 pin header |
ISP |
71600-006LF |
After that, I proceeded to solder all components in place.
I started with a visual inspection.
OK, I need to clean a bit more.
With the multimeter, I looked for shorts, especially between Vcc and GND, and nothing was detected.
Overall, the board seemed fine, so I proceeded with the programming.
In order to program the fabricated programmer, I made use of a piece of hardware called USBasp. On his website, Thomas Fischl describes it as:
"USBasp is a USB in-circuit programmer for Atmel AVR controllers. It simply consists of an ATMega88 or an ATMega8 and a couple of passive components. The programmer uses a firmware-only USB driver, no special USB controller is needed."
You use it just like the USBtiny.
The header poking out of the transparent plastic cover is the "slow SCK" jumper: it lowers the programming clock so the USBasp can talk to chips running at a slow clock (below about 1.5 MHz). The USBasp I have does not detect speeds automatically, so you simply install the jumper to change speed modes. This is necessary, for example, when programming an ATtiny44 or 45 still running at its factory 1 MHz clock, while a faster chip like the AT90USB1286 can be programmed at the normal speed. The new firmware on these programmers can usually detect the speed of the chip automatically, like on the ones sold today on AliExpress for less than 2 dollars.
So going back to the software, under Ubuntu for Windows 10 (Windows Subsystem for Linux), I started by installing the programming environment with the command sudo apt-get install avrdude gcc-avr avr-libc make
With the prior command, the programs got downloaded.
I then downloaded the firmware source to a directory. Following that, I ran the command make
Using Sublime Text, I edited the Makefile and replaced the entry "PROGRAMMER ?= usbtiny" with "PROGRAMMER ?= usbasp".
As explained before, since I was making a USBtiny, I did not have a programmer other than the USBasp, so that's why I replaced the code with the one compatible with my device.
I then ran
make flash
But no success. So I ran lsusb to get the list of available USB devices.
And I got a message "unable to initialize libusb: -99"
After a quick search on Stack Overflow, I found out there is no support for USB in the Windows 10 Ubuntu shell yet! Argh!
Note: I haven't confirmed yet, but apparently in 2020, USB is supported in the Windows Subsystem for Linux, but it was not at the time I made these exercises.
Then I gave up on Ubuntu Bash for Windows 10 and ran a copy of Ubuntu under VMware Player. In Ubuntu, I ran:
sudo apt install avrdude gcc-avr avr-libc make
This time, after running lsusb, I could see that the device was present.
I ran
make
in order to compile the firmware.
I then ran
make flash
But again, I got an error message.
I realized that Brian's ISP has to have a jumper installed in order to program the ATtiny45, and yes, I forgot to solder the jumper.
That made me remove the shrink tube I had installed before.
So I did it!
And it works!
Next, I ran
make fuses
After having the firmware uploaded and fuses burned, my new ISP would not be recognized.
So back to debugging…
I ended up measuring each resistor value and replacing the ATtiny with a new one. With a multimeter, I found out that the R1 1K resistor was not working. I replaced it, and voilà! Board detected!!! Oh, also, I decided to install a USB connector I cut from an old cable, and after some washing, that's how it looks.
Final command make rstdisbl
It worked! Now I remove the jumper!
It works! That is proved by the detection of the USBtiny by the Linux command lsusb as shown in the picture above and zoomed below:
Not tired of changing platforms, I decided to test Windows. Here is a screenshot of how I load the driver for my USBasp. I use this very useful software that makes installing drivers on Windows 10 less traumatic.
To load the driver on Windows, I use the tool "Zadig_2.2.exe".
Here I show a recent screenshot that proves the USBtiny is detected under Windows. Since I did this exercise years ago, I do not have the driver installation procedure outlined for Windows, but I have shown its detection before on Linux as well as now on Windows.
After the driver installation, I tested burning my 3D printer board's firmware under Windows. The firmware I burned, as just outlined, was the firmware for a Printrboard I made years ago with the open-source plans.
In the terrible footage below, you can see this happening with the command avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U flash:w:BootloaderHID.hex:i -U lfuse:w:0xDE:m -U hfuse:w:0xdb:m -U efuse:w:0xF0:m
To eliminate confusion about whether the fabricated USBtiny burns or not, let's dissect the code above:
avrdude is the name of the program.-c usbtiny defines the programmer name; "usbtiny" is the fabricated programmer name.-p at90usb1286 is the target IC to be programmed, here the AT90USB1286 that is installed on my Printrboard.-U flash:w:BootloaderHID.hex:i defines the name/location of the firmware to be loaded, in this case "BootloaderHID.hex".
-U lfuse:w:0xDE:m -U hfuse:w:0xdb:m -U efuse:w:0xF0:m is the part of the command that burns the fuses.All of the above is shown in the terrible footage ;-) below.
All working!
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