Initial Connection

First, turn on the scanner and connect it to the laptop. Once done, open and initialize the program. On the screen, click the option to create a new project to start.

Pattern Board Calibration

To begin scanning, it is necessary to calibrate the scanner using the pattern board and stand included in the box. Instructions on how to place it will appear on the calibration screen; follow the steps to pass the 3 required calibration points.

Purpose of Calibration

3D scanner calibrations are mainly performed to ensure that captured data is a faithful and precise representation of reality. Without this process, the sensor may lose its sense of depth or scale, generating deformed models.

White Balance

After the board calibration, it will ask for a white balance calibration. Place a completely white sheet on top of the board and start. This is fundamental for chromatic fidelity; while standard calibration adjusts geometry, white balance adjusts the visual appearance.

Starting the Scan

Once finished, you can proceed to the general operations screen. Place your piece in the desired position on the turntable and use the "Start Scan" button on the right side to begin scanning your chosen figure.

Operation Settings

On the left side, under the scanner camera, you will see an operation bar where you can adjust the scan light, the number of rotations, and the rotation speed. If you want the figure to build itself automatically from multiple scans, select the "Features" option in the "Align Mode" section.

Process Execution

Once your scan begins, you should see something similar to what is shown in the video as the turntable and sensor sync.

Data Interpretation

After each scan, you will see the construction of your object. Yellow sections mean they are empty or require more scanning. As you use more positions and angles, the figure will turn grey in the parts that are completely defined.

The Mesh Model

On the left, you can see the scans that make up the model. On the right, the top option exports the scan, and the bottom one is for the Mesh Model: the result of transforming the unorganized point cloud into a solid surface of polygons (triangles).

Quality Selection

If you select the mesh model option, you can choose the operation quality. Choose the option that your computer allows, as this operation can sometimes be very heavy for the hardware.

Watertight Export

When ready to export your model to STL for printing, you can choose between Watertight and Unwatertight models. In my case, I used the Watertight model to ensure a closed, 3D-printable solid without holes.

Final Preparation

Once your scan is exported to STL, you can import it into 3D printing software such as Ultimaker Cura to prepare your file for the printer.

Joint Architecture

To begin the creation process, you must design the main torso with specific integration points. These cavities act as the housing for the arm and leg hinges, ensuring the limbs can rotate without detaching.

Arm Socket Design

For the arms, I first performed a boolean cut to create space for the internal cylinder. This "socket" is where the arm's connector will eventually hook onto the central axis.

Connection Cylinder

It is necessary to add a physical cylinder or pivot pin across the socket. This axis serves as the anchor point from which the next piece will hang and rotate.

Assembly Visualization

The final arm connection socket should look integrated into the torso, providing enough internal clearance for the moving part to avoid friction.

Lower Body Articulation

For the legs, I designed similar holes where a transverse cylinder passes through, mirroring the arm mechanism but scaled for the lower body's weight distribution.

Gravity-Based Hanging

Crucially, I removed the "floor" or bottom face of the leg sockets. This hollow base allows the legs to swing down and hang; without this gap, the legs would remain locked in a rigid sitting position.

Strategic Placement

Position the connection cylinder near the bottom of the body. This placement ensures that gravity helps the limb stay in the correct orientation when the toy is placed on a ledge.

Leg Components

The legs are manufactured as independent pieces that feature both an eyelet (to receive the torso's cylinder) and a secondary axis to connect to the feet.

Precision Cutting

When extruding the cuts for the leg joints, align the bottom line with the torso's floor. This consistency ensures that the limbs don't collide with the body during the printing process.

Geometric Calibration

Ensure the connection cylinders are placed at the exact same height and diameter as the limb sockets to maintain structural symmetry and fluid motion.

Efficient Modeling

To make the cylinder span the gap perfectly, use the "Extrude to Object/Surface" function. This allows the pin to touch the opposite wall without over-extruding into other internal geometries.

Mechanical Tolerances

The "tail" or connector must be slightly smaller than the socket to move freely. I added a 1.2mm clearance to the eyelet diameter. It is vital that these parts touch the print bed to provide a stable foundation for the print.

Movement Flexibility

The back of the connection must remain open. This provides the necessary range of motion for the legs to swing from a 90° angle to a fully extended vertical position.

Arm Components

The arms were designed using the same logic as the legs, creating modular pieces that maintain the "Funky Punky" aesthetic while remaining functional.

Joint Linkage

Each arm has a connector loop to cross the pivot axis. By standardizing the cylinder sizes, the assembly remains consistent across the whole model.

Range of Motion

If the arms feel restricted, remove the "ceiling" or top part of the shoulder socket. This extra space allows the arm to rotate higher, increasing the toy's overall flexibility.

Successful Print Settings

In the final assembly, remember: ALWAYS KEEP LEGS FLAT against the build plate. The arms must also touch the bed at their final connection point to serve as a starting anchor, ensuring the printer has a solid base to build upon.

Checking before printing

Before printing make sure that the flat part of your creation looks like this, this means that those parts are flat touching on the printing bed, which is perfect.

Removing the supports

In order to remove the supports that you may use, I recommend using a small but strong pair of twizzers in order to be able to be precise and not break any important part.

Final result of the toy