5. 3D Scanning and Printing¶

Summary¶

Group Assignment¶

Objective¶

In this group assignment, I tested the design rules of our 3D printer to understand its limitations and printing quality.
For the experiment, I used Bambu Lab X1 Carbon Combo with AMS and PETG filament.

My 3D Printer¶

• Model: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon Combo
• Build Volume: 256 × 256 × 256 mm
• Filament System: AMS (Automatic Material System)
• Material: PETG (Jiang He)
• Slicer: Bambu Studio
• Layer Height: 0.2 mm
• Nozzle Temperature: 250 °C
• Bed Temperature: 75 °C
• Print Speed: 80 mm/s
• Cooling: 50 %

Test Models¶

I printed several calibration models to test: - Clearance (gap) - Overhang angles - Bridging performance

These tests help to define the design rules and precision of my printer.

Results¶

1.Bridge Test¶

I performed a bridge test to see how well my printer can print unsupported horizontal spans.

On the test piece, the printer started with short bridges and gradually increased the span length.
Short bridges printed cleanly with no visible sagging. As the distance increased, a small amount of sagging appeared in the middle of the bridge, but the filament was still continuous and structurally acceptable.

From this test, I learned the maximum practical bridge length for PETG on my Bambu Lab X1 Carbon before the quality starts to noticeably degrade. For longer distances I would add supports instead of relying on pure bridging.

2. Overhang Test¶

This test evaluates how well my Bambu Lab A1 can print overhangs in PETG without using supports.

From this test, the maximum reliable overhang angle for PETG on my Bambu Lab A1 is around 40–45° without supports.

Analysis¶

I noticed that PETG material requires slightly higher temperature and less cooling than PLA.
The Bambu Lab X1 Carbon performed very well — the layers were consistent, and the surface quality was smooth.
The AMS system also helped with reliable filament feeding and reduced stringing.

From this test I learned: - Minimum clearance: 0.5 mm
- Maximum overhang: 45°
- Maximum bridge: 14 mm
- Dimensional accuracy: ±0.1 mm

Conclusion¶

Through this experiment, I learned how to evaluate the design rules of a 3D printer and how different geometries affect print quality.
Now I know the optimal parameters for my Bambu Lab X1 Carbon Combo when printing with PETG.
This knowledge will help me design more reliable and accurate 3D models in the future.

Individual assignment¶

Assembling My Delivery Robot in Fusion 360¶

For my final project, I designed all mechanical parts of my delivery robot as separate components in different Fusion 360 files. After completing the individual models, I started assembling everything inside one master design file.

To position each part accurately, I used the Move/Copy tool. This allowed me to align every piece by selecting the correct origin point and matching it with the target point, ensuring a precise fit between the components.

This method helped me recreate the full robot structure digitally exactly as it would be assembled in real life.

Selecting the component and move type¶

In this image, I selected the body part that I want to place, highlighted inside the red square. On the right, I opened the Move/Copy tool and chose the Move Type: Point to Point. This is the first step to position the part correctly.

Choosing origin and target points¶

In this photo, I selected the origin point on the blue part (red square) and the target point on the beige part (red square). The red arrows show the direction in which I moved the part to align it smoothly with the rest of the model.

Correct alignment achieved¶

Here, the part is fully aligned and positioned correctly. The red arrows highlight the areas where the part fits perfectly into the assembly. This confirms that my alignment process worked as expected.

3D Printing¶

This week’s individual assignment was to design and 3D print an object (small, a few cm³, limited by printer time) that could not be easily made subtractively.

For my final project, I already had a specific part that perfectly fits this description — a complex plastic component that would be very difficult or even impossible to make using traditional subtractive methods such as milling or cutting.

I designed this part in Fusion 360 and printed it using a 3D printer. The 3D printing process allowed me to create a single, seamless piece with internal structures and curved geometry that could not be achieved with other machines. This task helped me better understand the advantages of additive manufacturing and its role in developing my final project.

In this step, I prepared my 3D model for printing using Fusion 360. From the top menu, I selected File → 3D Print, which opens the export settings for generating a 3D-printable mesh. This tool allows me to export my design as an STL file, a standard format for 3D printing.

I carefully checked that the correct body was selected before exporting. The preview on the right side helped me confirm that the geometry looked clean and ready for slicing. This step is very important because exporting the model with the right resolution and settings ensures the printed part will have the same dimensions and quality as the original design in Fusion 360.

In this stage, I saved my model as an STL (.stl) file directly to my local computer. I named the file Front FP21_MIR v1 to keep my project files organized and version-controlled. I also verified that the “Save to my computer” option was checked, so the file would be stored locally instead of in the Fusion 360 cloud.

Finally, I clicked OK and Save, successfully exporting the part. This STL file is now ready to be imported into a slicer program for 3D printing. Exporting directly from Fusion 360 ensures that my model maintains high accuracy and mesh quality, which is essential for precise 3D printed components used in my final project.

In this step, I opened the Bambu Studio slicer software and selected my Bambu Lab X1 Carbon 3D printer with a Textured PEI Plate as the printing surface. Then, I imported my previously exported STL file (Front FP21_MIR v1.stl) by clicking Open. This step loads my 3D model into the slicer, where I can preview and prepare it for printing.

After importing the model, I positioned it on the print bed and enabled Support Generation. Since my part includes complex overhangs and curved geometry, enabling support structures ensures stable printing and prevents deformation. I used Tree (Auto) support type because it provides good strength while saving filament and is easy to remove after printing.

Next, I adjusted the infill and print settings. I used Generic PLA filament with a 0.4 mm nozzle and set the infill density to 50% for a balance between strength and weight. This setting is especially useful for mechanical parts like mine, which need to be durable but not too heavy. Once all parameters were configured, I proceeded to slice the model.

After slicing, the software displayed the slicing result summary. Here I could see the estimated printing time (around 2 hours), filament usage (approximately 69 g total), and cost. This information helps estimate material consumption and ensures the print fits within available time limits. Everything looked correct, so I was ready to start the printing process.

Finally, I exported the sliced file in .3mf format, naming it Front FP21_MIR v1.gcode.3mf. This file contains all the necessary print instructions — layer height, speed, temperature, and pathing — which can be directly read by the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon printer. I saved it to my computer, ready to transfer it to the printer for the actual 3D printing process.

Next, I positioned the remaining robot components on the build plate in Bambu Studio to print the rest of the parts.

Before starting the printing process, I carefully prepared my 3D printer — the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon. First, I cleaned and degreased the magnetic build plate to ensure that the printed part would adhere properly and not detach during printing. Then, I re-aligned the plate on the print bed to make sure it was positioned correctly and flat — this helps prevent any printing issues such as layer shifting or warping.

After the preparation, I sent the sliced file to the printer and started the print. Before printing, I also disabled the “Timelapse” recording option, since it increases the total print time. By turning it off, I was able to optimize the printing duration and focus on achieving the best possible surface quality and precision.

3D Printing Process and Troubleshooting¶

3D Printing Process and Troubleshooting¶

After successfully printing the first prototype part, I continued to prepare and print the remaining components for my final project.
I carefully followed the same workflow described earlier — exporting from Fusion 360, slicing in Bambu Studio, and sending each file to the printer for fabrication.
Every part was slightly different in shape and size, so I reviewed the slicing parameters before printing to ensure good quality and dimensional accuracy.

For this task, I worked with three printers simultaneously:
two Bambu Lab X1 Carbon Combo machines and one Bambu Lab A1.
Using multiple printers in parallel helped me save a lot of time and manage the large number of parts more efficiently.
In total, printing all the components took about four full days and consumed roughly 10 kilograms of PLA filament.
I used high-quality PLA Basic material because it provides a balance between strength, surface quality, and print reliability.

During the process, I faced several challenges and technical issues, which taught me a lot about 3D printer maintenance and calibration.
For example, at one point, the filament got stuck and tangled on the spool.
This caused the print to stop unexpectedly.
I paused the job, rewound the filament manually, and reloaded it properly onto the feeder.
After fixing the issue, the print continued without problems.
To keep the printer in good condition, I also cleaned and lubricated the Z-axis rods using the oil provided in the maintenance kit — this ensured smooth and consistent vertical movement during printing.

Another issue appeared later with the extruder — the printer suddenly stopped extruding filament in the middle of a print.
At first, I thought it was a small clog, so I tried cleaning the nozzle several times with a fine needle.
However, the problem persisted even after multiple attempts.
I searched for solutions online and found several useful YouTube tutorials explaining that this issue is often caused by a clogged or damaged hotend.

Luckily, my printer came with a spare hotend in the accessory box.
I decided to replace it entirely — I applied a thin layer of thermal paste on the two temperature sensors, carefully inserted them into the new hotend, and tightened all screws securely.
After assembling everything back together, I started a test print — and to my surprise, it worked perfectly on the first try!
Seeing the printer resume normal operation after hours of troubleshooting was a truly rewarding moment.

This whole process gave me hands-on experience not only in 3D printing but also in machine diagnostics and repair.
I learned how to identify mechanical and extrusion-related issues, how to perform regular maintenance, and how to react quickly when something goes wrong during long print sessions.
By the end of this week, I had successfully printed all the parts for my final project and gained a much deeper understanding of how professional 3D printers operate.

Overall, this experience was very valuable for me — it strengthened both my technical skills and my patience.
It reminded me that real engineering is not only about designing in software but also about solving problems in the real world.

After several days of continuous printing, I finally completed all 3D-printed parts for my final project.

This is the top cover of the robot. Because the part was larger than the printer’s build volume, I printed it in two pieces and later joined them together. The two surfaces show different printing orientations, which affected the texture.

This photo shows the front half of the robot body. Multiple printed sections were bonded using adhesive. This part forms the structural base for the front geometry.

This is another view of the front section of the robot. The white and red inserts represent the robot’s headlights. The curved shape is visible here, forming the exterior front shell.

This is a front body component designed to mount the LIDAR module. Reinforcement ribs were added to support the curved shape and provide stability for the sensor.

This is an internal structural piece from the front of the robot, also intended for LIDAR mounting. The internal geometry supports alignment and increases overall rigidity of the front section.

This is the rear part of the robot. It is made from four printed pieces that I assembled together using glue, and additionally reinforced using a soldering iron to melt plastic at the seams for added strength.

This was a big achievement for me because it was the first time I printed and assembled such a large and complex structure.

Here you can see the assembled body of my robot.
I joined all printed parts using a soldering iron and spare plastic pieces to fuse the surfaces together from the inside — this method provided a strong and seamless bond.
Additionally, I used super glue to reinforce the joints and make the entire body more rigid and stable.

It was very satisfying to see the final form come together after so much work.
Printing, preparing, and assembling such a large enclosure gave me new experience in large-scale 3D printing, post-processing, and mechanical assembly techniques.
This step marked an important milestone in the development of my robot project.

3D Scanning¶

For 3D scanning, I used my iPad, which is equipped with a built-in LiDAR sensor.
This model provides good depth accuracy and decent camera quality, making it suitable for scanning small and medium-sized objects.

To perform the scan, I used an app called WIDAR, which I downloaded from the App Store.
The interface of WIDAR is very simple and user-friendly, allowing me to quickly learn how to use it.

I opened the WIDAR app and signed in. Here I selected “Sign In with Apple” to access the application.

After logging in, I reached the main page. I selected “New Scan” to begin creating a 3D scan.

I pointed the camera at the physical model and captured multiple photos around the object to generate a 3D reconstruction. The red area shows the object being scanned, and the button is used to take pictures.

After capturing the photos, the app displayed all images in a draft list. Here I could review the images, add more photos if needed, and then press “Generate 3D Model” to continue.

The images were uploaded for processing. The progress indicator shows the upload status while the 3D model is being generated.

At first, I practiced by scanning a few small objects to get familiar with the process and understand how lighting and distance affect the quality of the scan.
After gaining some confidence, I decided to scan a larger object to test the LiDAR’s precision.

To achieve better results, I placed the object on a flat surface and added a white sheet of paper underneath to improve contrast and help the app detect edges more accurately.
The final result turned out quite good — as shown in the video, the 3D model captured the shape and proportions very well.

Downloading my 3D scan in WIDAR¶

In the WIDAR app, I wanted to download the 3D model that I scanned myself. The application provides many export formats such as OBJ, FBX, GLB, STL, USDZ, PLY, and XYZ — which is very convenient for using the model in different software environments.

However, when I tried to export my scan, I discovered that all of these export options are part of the WIDAR Pro subscription. As shown in the screenshots, exporting requires a paid plan, either $9.59 USD/month or $67.23 USD/year. Because of this limitation, I decided not to buy the subscription and did not purchase it.

Conclusion¶

This week was a great learning experience for me.
I designed, sliced, and printed several complex 3D parts for my final project and successfully assembled a large, functional structure.
Through this process, I learned how to troubleshoot printer issues, optimize print settings, and work with multiple printers efficiently.
I also experimented with 3D scanning using LiDAR and gained practical experience in combining digital design with real fabrication.
Overall, this week helped me improve my technical skills and confidence in digital fabrication tools.

Files for download¶

• angle
• bridging
• free
• overhang
• Robot