π§ͺ Week 13: Molding and Casting
π―ββοΈ Teaming Up for Fun and Efficiency
This week, my good friends Sohan, Devanshi, and I decided to join forces β to save time, efficiently use material, and most importantly, have fun!
π Measuring the Wax Block
First and foremost, I took measurements of the wax block we were going to use for making the mold. Then, we figured out the dimensions in which we could design our first-ever mold.
π‘ Choosing What to Model
We pondered a lot of options for creating our 3D model β from ancient Indian weapons to low-poly animals. Finally, staying true to our Product Design specialisation, we locked in on creating tools.
π¨ Designing My Tool β The Hammer
I took up the hammer.
Then I opened up Fusion 360 to model my tool. First, I made a rectangle based on the dimension limits and began modeling. A few sketches, multiple extrudes, and countless offset planes later... my hammer was ready!
π§© Combining the Models
Next, I imported the models my friends had made to combine and make a single .stl file for the mold.
To import someone else's model in Fusion 360:
- You need their .f3d file saved locally on your system.
- Click on Insert > New Component, and then rotate/place it wherever you want.
After combining all our models and making walls for each, we exported the mold as an .stl file.
π₯οΈ Setting Up for Milling
We revisited an old friend from Electronics Production Week β the Rolland SRM-20.
We used the V-Panel software to set the origin of all three axes, and then we dove into a new software β SRP Player.
Importing our model in SRP player
Specifying the type of cutting process
Creating a toolpath
Specifying material
Choosing the milling process
Aligning top
Preview of the path
Drill bit specifications
Creating a toolpath
Drill bit selection menu
Toolpath preview
Starting to cut
Setting origin point
Milling finished
β³ The milling file took 5 hours to roughen and finish.
Milling process
Ball-end bit
Attaching the wax block
Setting-up the machine
Origin set
Milling process
Milling result
π A Realisation and a Pivot
Halfway through the milling cycle, we realised that I had created a mold that was not radially symmetric. That meant I wouldn't be able to make a 2-part mold out of it.
Our spirits took a hit. π₯²
Hours of aimless web surfing later, an idea sprang up β What if we made spintops?
- Radially symmetric? β
- Fun? Absolutely! π
π Making the Spin Tops
I promptly made a new model in Fusion, imported all models into one file, created a new mold, and exported it as an .stl.
Set it up again in SRP Player, and began another 9-hour milling cycle.
I also extruded the base slightly and 3D printed the same file. We now had two mother molds.
This time, I followed the advice to use holes for alignment while casting β added 5 mm holes on both sides and 3D printed pegs of the same size.
Adding a pouring hole
Adding alignment pegs
Final mold
π οΈ A Makeshift Solution
One of our mold walls had been milled away from the wax due to a slightly offset origin. We made a makeshift container using some acrylic lying around.
Online tool for making a quick box
βοΈ Unexpected Machine Stop
Our machine stopped midway because the collet of the motor touched the material. We had to:
- Reset the Z-axis
- Run the entire cycle again
Because of that:
- 2 out of 3 tops weren't finished properly
- The 3rd top, which hadnβt even been roughened yet, came out very smooth π§΅
Mold Result
π§« Silicone Mixing Time
Now came the interesting part β enter silicone mixing! π§ͺ
Our mentor instructed us on the mixing ratio:
1 part hardener : 10 parts silicone.
We used:
- π§€ Gloves
- π₯½ Safety glasses
- π§΄ Clean mixing containers
- βοΈ A weighing scale
We mixed the silicone, carefully folding to avoid air bubbles, and poured it into our molds.
Following safety guidelines
Weighing the silicon
Weighing the hardener
Pouring
Folding with caution
Pouring into our molds
Tapping to get the bubbles out
π¨οΈ The 3D Printed Mold
The 3D printed mold turned out really smooth too.
Yes, we could see the layer lines, but nothing that a little sanding canβt fix!
3D printed mold result
Casting
The ratio that we used for making the silicon took 12 hours to dry, so we covered the top of the mold and left it overnight.
Demolding the cured silicon
All the components made for this week
Using alignment pegs for casting
Final mold
For now we filled our mold with water
Putting it too set
I will post the results of here soon!