Final Project: Development¶

Final Project: Proposal, is the age-old blueprint of my Final project which I had conjured up in Week 1 and Week 2. It includes a rough idea of what the project was about, along with a silly little sketch and the work I had done in my CAD pertaining to the final project. Almost all of it has been altered greatly. I have, however, actually used the Cauldron designed in week 2 in my actual final project! It also has proposals for other project ideas which I was juggling with back then.

Final Project: Planning includes all my sketches and schedules that I had made every now and then to better understand where I stand and what I needed to do next.

Final Project: Development (this page), on the other hand, talks about everything that was a part of the actual execution- everything other than planning. It goes in spirals.

Final Project: Presentation houses my final Slide and Video as presented to Neil. Along with the video of the presentation itself. I have also added a few of the Hero shots there which were generally loved by the public! ^_^

Brief:¶

A Witch’s Atelier

tl;dr-
A d&d map with 3d pieces, electronics, lights, and movement.
A witch themed map and storyline.

Long form:

Create an immersive, interactive D&D map themed around a witch’s atelier, featuring detailed 3D elements, electronics for dynamic lighting, and mechanical components for movement. Set up and transportability should be easy and the map should aim to be modular.

Modularity is a work in progress. For now, most of the features are fixed due to electronic constraints.

Documentation Breakdown:¶

I’ll start with a quick breakdown of how my Final Project development is split:

Inspiration and Ideation
Map pieces
Designing
Producing- Laser cut and 3D printing:
1. Trials and errors:
  1. Tile shape change
  2. Door error
  3. Lithophane
Assembly and Testing:
1. Smaller board 3x3
2. Walls
Embedded coding for Light effects:
1. Smaller board was cut
2. Camp
3. Cauldron
4. Castle
5. Servo
6. Mortar
7. Megacode
Bigger board is cut and apply tape:
1. Time lapse
2. Servo pins show
PCB milling:
1. Iteration 1:
  1. CAD
  2. Milling
  3. Challenges. Plan to solder wires but looked ugly. Not good assembly as you cannot remove it to repair.
2. Iteration 2, header pins + Small PCB for Cu tape- PCB broke
3. Iteration 3, same as above success:
  1. CAD changes and printing
3D scan:
1. Self scan
2. Witch with link
3. Magnets attached
Painting:
1. Trials
2. Global open time – Acrylic
3. Painting in process
Final assembly:
1. Error in Servo last minute
2. Shooting and Video

1. Inspiration and Ideation¶

Researching projects done by others:¶

I started out by figuring out two parts- the mechanical joining and the electronic joining. I knew it had to be done in layers. For the mechanical joining I was inspired by our instructor, Jesal Sir’s Tic-tac-toe, and for the electronics joining I took inspiration from Ana Pilar Valerga’s Final Project from 2023. I found her project interesting as it had little Triangular nodes which would connect to a Hex like Dome and as soon as it connected, the LED in the triangle would light up. I even had a little chat with her to understand how she made the elctronic connections. The secret is Copper tape! Huge thanks to Ana for all the help and kudos to her for having such an inspiring project!

Jesal sir’s Tic tac toe. Here you see that the ply is layered. The first layer from the bottom is the base and has no cut while the second layer has a cutout of a a rounded square in which the pieces fit. Inspired from this, I used a similar method where the base layer would not have any cutouts and the top layer would have cutouts. The tiles that are 3D printed would have projections of the same shape as the cutout which would fit into the top layer!

Ana’s Final Project. Here you see that the LED is inside the triangular piece with the pins sticking out and bent. The pins would directly make contact with copper tape to complete the circuit and light up. Since, I had a similar concept where the 3d printed tile houses an LED, I decided to use a similar method where the LED pins would stick out and copper tape would be used in the laser cut base to complete the circuit.

Mechanisms and System Integration:¶

I started by sketching out the basics. Eventually, I knew one layer had to have copper tape but at first, I was still unsure about the tape. Hence, I tried sketching out layers which used jumper wires as well.

System 1:¶

Here, the the 3d printed tile fits into the first laser cut layer which has a slot of the same shape as the tile. The LED pins that stick out will then come in contact with blobs of solder which are on the copper tape. The blobs of solder were to ensure contact between the LED pin and the copper tape.

However, when I tried the soldering blob method, I realized that It wasn’t actually working as well as I had thought.

I will explain the new shape of the board and the engraved Witch silhouette in another section of my documentation so do not worry.

System 2:¶

Here, I made a sketch that used jumper wires and header pins to connect the LED to the microcontroller. The tile would connect to the smaller PCB using the solder blob method, which would connect to either a larger base PCB or to the MCU directly using jumper wires.

This method seemed complex and easy for failures to occur as the solder blob method was dodgy.

System 3:¶

Here, I thought of using a small PCB inside each tile.

However, this system would require a LOT of small PCBs to be milled for each tile and overall seemed very complex. Additionally, I felt that it would not be user-friendly for the player to insert header pins, and if they get misaligned it would be difficult for the user to realign them.

System 4:¶

Here, I thought of directly soldering the LED pins to header pins which would then connect to jumpers attached to the base layer.

Again, as mentioned earlier, header connections felt not so user-friendly as they could easily get misaligned. Plus they also felt unaesthetic but that might just be my preferences.

System 5:¶

One of the suggestions by my instructors were to use Pogo Pins to make the connections. However, given that Pogo pins are not easily available and are quite expensive in India, I did not go ahead with this.

Final System:¶

Finally, I chose to simply have the LED pins stick out of the tile and to have flaps made from Copper tape to compelte the contact.

I even tried using foam to allow the copper tape to stay in contact with the tile but it turned out really messy.

An early prototype:

I was simultaneously working on 3D modelling and printing out the tiles.
So with the couple of tiles I had ready, I cutout a cardboard layout for the tile to fit into.

I also took my Dev Board PCB and and connected 3V3 pin and GND to the pins of the LED.

It looked amazing in the dark!

Next, I put a few strips of Copper tape on the cardboard. I connected the ends of the tape to my microcontroller PCB and placed the tile on it. It worked:

2. Map pieces:¶

Here, I will explain what each tile is intended to do:

a. Castle tile¶

I used AI to generate an image of the object/structure I wanted which I then used as a reference to 3D model the same.

ai generated image

Next I began modelling the same on blender.

The overall idea for the castle was to have lightning-like effect with Blue LED.

Somewhere along the way, I had the idea to put the silhouette of the Witch holding a knife INSIDE the castle so that when the light hits it, the silhouette appears on the outside:

I was told by my instructors that such an object is called a Lithophane. They recommended I use 3dp.rocks to get the lithophane of an image but since I was just using a vector file of the witch, I chose to do some trials and errors with 3d printing:

I printed out just the witch jutting out of a thin wall and flashed light from behind.

Here, I gave a different infill setting on CURA for the extrusion of the witch’s silhouette. This can be done by following the video linked here

Once I was happy with it, I printed the same on the castle.

b. Campfire¶

The campfire was a simple map piece which would have Logs and a sort of stone boundary. I decided to use cotton to represent flames and an Orange LED programmed to flicker like fire!

c. Cauldron¶

Here, I chose to work on the Cauldron I had designed in Week 2. Similar to the camp tile, the Cauldron too would have an Orange LED that would flicker like flames.

d. Mortar¶

Again, I used Gemini AI to generate a visual of what I wanted:

ai generated image

I then used this as a reference image while doing my 3D modelling.

I chose to give the Mortar a green light because it indicates magic potions and herbs.

For the LED, I wanted it simply fade in and fade out really slow so that it looked as if it is pulsing with energy.

e. Servo door¶

The only moving tile in the map would be the door. Here, the idea is to have a Servo move a Door based on the input from a Reed Switch.

The player minifigure would have a magnet underneath which would trigger the Reed tile and that would cause the Servo to be triggered.

f. Reed tile¶

This tile would look the same as any other floor tile as the player minifigure has to walk over the tile.

g. Skull tile¶

I modelled and printed this tile thinking I could cast resin over it using my mold from Molding and Casting week (I would use only one part of the silicone mold) so that the skull appears as if it is frozen in ice/crytallized.

However, I did not manage to pour the resin hence I painted the Skull normally and it looked fabulous (and creepy)!

h. Wall tiles¶

These are tiles which would be 3d printed and have slots in them for walls to fit.

i. Walls¶

The walls would be made using laser cut MDF. I even chose to engrave a brick pattern on the wall based on a brick wall I had at home.

The slots of the wall would fit into the wall tile.

Some walls would require to be a bit shorter in length so as to not collide/overlap with other walls. These are all the walls that meet at 90 degrees.

Standard walls= same size as all the tiles = 50mm Intersecting walls= shorter by 2 mm as the MDF is 4 mm thick

j. Floor tiles¶

These are regular flat tiles where the players can step. These are colored as: - Green for grass, outside the house - Red for the Cauldron room - Blue for the Mortar room - Grey, indicating Stone, for the Back room with the skull and fire.

I divided the whole 3d printed tile into 4 smaller tiles such that it forms a 2 by grid 2 on each tile piece.

Connections required:¶

The LED of the CASTLE, CAMP, CAULDRON, and MORTAR would each be connected to GND and a separate Analog Pin on the Xiao RP2040 for the PWM.

The Servo would connect to 5V power, GND, and a digital pin on the same Xiao RP2040.

The Reed switch would connect to a 3V3 pin and a digital pin on the same Xiao RP2040.

Thankfully, the Xiao has enough pins for each of these.

3. Designing and CAD:¶

As mentioned earlier, I began CAD and 3D printing while simultaneously working on other areas. I focused on finishing off with 3D modelling and then printing the tiles in the initial few days.

For most of the tiles that involved complex structures, like the Castle, Bone/Skull and Camp, I used Blender to make the initial mesh of the structure. The Cauldron was already made in week 2 so I just improved upon it a bit and was fine.

Bone and Skull¶

I started by making the Bone using simple shapes:

Next I used boolean to comine the different meshes and finally used the smooth mod to get a good tranistion where the mesh is meeting

Next, I made the skull. I did not use the Sculpt mode, instead I use proportional editing to manually drag/resize the mesh to get the correct shape.

I also had the mirror modifier active so that the other half of the skull was simply mirrored.

And then finally, smoothening it using Smooth modifier.

Next I copy pasted the bone and skull in such a way that it resembled a pile of bones and I exported it as STL.

I then went onto Fusion 360 and imported the bones

I then repaired the mesh on Fusion and combined it with a sort of square base plate I created on Fusion.

The whole idea of modelling on blender and correcting on Fusion serves two purposes:
- Fusion allows you to repair bad mesh. If you print a mesh from Blender directly, in my experience, it has always failed in some way.

Fusion is better for measurements as the base units are millimeters, and not meters like in blender. Hence it is easier to get the right scale of the model for printing.
Also, if you have extra parts that are common for all of your models (like the square base plate of my tiles along with the triangular protrusion) it is easier to combine the modelled structure with the common part on fusion and then generate STL for printing.

Keep in mind that you must convert the repaired mesh into a solid body on fusion before combining with anything else.

I then took it to the printer and got printing!

Castle¶

For the castle, I began with a basic cube and scaled and extruded it such that it gave me a basic shape of the castle I wanted.

I merged vertices to get the pointed Spires and I added loop cuts whereever I needed extra faces.

Eventually I had a good shape

I even tried playing around with modifiers to see if this wobbly, curvy, haunted castle looked better. It didn’t.

Mortar¶

I used the AI genereated image as a reference. You can do this by going to Insert>Image

I created the mortar bowl and the base separately

Then I made the handle.

Finally I combined the three into one body

However, I wanted to give slots such that the Light from the LED could escape out from the slots and it owuld look as if the base of the mortar is also illuminating.

Camp¶

I began, once again, on Blender. I made a basic cylinder and extruded certain areas to look like branches.

I went onto Sculpt mode and gave it a bit more depth

Finally I exported the mesh to Fusion. Repaired it, made it solid, and the rearranged it to look like a camp. I even sketched a few irregular quadrilaterals on Fusion and extruded it to look like stone slabs around a fireplace.

Servo Door¶

I modelled the servo door on Fusion- making sketches of simple shapes and polygons and then extruding them and giving a fillet.

On the inside of the door, I left space for the servo motor based on the measurements of an actual servo.

The base of the door tile was also modelled on fusion as it had slots for the servo’s head to fit into along with a slot for wires to pass through.

Floor and Wall tiles¶

The floor tiles and wall tiles were more geometric in nature so I modelled them on Fusion directly.

For the wall tiles, I edited the floor tiles by adding slots of 4mm thickness for the MDF walls to fit into.

Walls¶

I clicked a photo of a brick wall texture in my home.

Then I took it to illustrator and did the image trace dropdown with “3 colors”

Next, I deleted the unwanted areas and just kept the outline of the bricks

I duplicated it and overlapped it till a nice brick wall appeared on the walls.

This was then engraved and cut.

Witch Silhouette¶

For the main board of the map. I used Illustrator to draw out a witch.

I even made the Lithophane silhouette on illustrator using the pen and pencil tools.

When it came to PCB design, I knew I wanted to give it a PCB shape. So, I used Illustrator once again to design a flat Pumpkin face and then exported it as a DXF.

Then, on Eagle/Fusion, I imported the DXF and clicked on create PCB after selecting the DXF so that the board took the shape of the DXF

Copper Tape Layouting¶

The base layer was meant to have the copper tape running on it. Hence, I chose to engrave the copper paths so that I would have an idea as to how to manually “route” the copper tape.

4. Production and Initial Assembly:¶

This phase was very iterative. I would make something and print it out or laser cut, assemble it briefly, realize that there are changes, and then repeat the cycle again.

I have tried to list out some of the major learnings from this iterative process below:

Initial phase: Directionality error¶

When I started printing out my initial batch of tiles, I realized that there was a major problem with my tiles:

There was no directionality!

This meant that the user would not know which way to place the tile. This could be a major problem as LEDs have a fixed negative and positive pins and in some directions, the tile would not even connect to the copper tape underneath!

I have shown the same error in the video:

Here, I decided to change the shape of the tile to make it directional, such that it can only fit in one direciton.

From here, I had the idea where the slot on the laser cut board could actually have a graphic of a witch engraved on it.

I drew it out on paper and eventually had it engraved

I also decided to not curve the edges of the tiles:

This is because it would leave this four point star shape where the edges of 4 tiles meet, as shown in the red area. Hence, I put straight square edges as shown in the green.

Door tile: Wrong Measurement¶

I decided that the door tile would be such that it houses the servo motor inside it. And I decided that since the map is a Witch’s Atelier, why not make the door really loud and bold and bulky when it comes to the form, shape, and design.

I also decided that since the servo already has wires, I would design the tile such the wires pass through into the base mdf layer and there they will connect to headers pins which are soldered on to copper tape (More on this later).

So I took some quick measurements and printed the door.

However, these measurements were wrong!

As shown above, the tip of the servo is barely sticking out of the base of the door. This was bad because the idea was that the base of the servo would fit into the other part of the tile as such:

Here, I used a screw to extend the tip of the servo beyond the door. However, it was really wonky and kept slipping off.

So, I decided to redesign it.

This time I printed a small part just to test if the fitting was right.

Once I had a good idea of the measurements based on this much smaller print, I went ahead and reprinted the door with the correct measurements.

Trials on smaller boards:¶

Alignment issue¶

I laser cut a smaller sized 3 by 3 grid board to test out fitting, connections etc.

At this point, I had a few tiles already 3D printed and ready, along with some Wall pieces.

I began by testing out the placements of three tiles I had with me:
- The camp tile
- A blank LED tile
- A Floor tile

Camp and floor:

Here, the tile was totally out of alignment. There was a 2 mm gap when placed on the bottom and a 2 mm shift when placed on the sides. Looking at this, I realized that there was an error in my Floor tile CAD itself.

I stopped printing any more tiles and quickly corrected the measurements of all the tiles to be the same. I then rechecked all models of my tiles to make sure there was no errors in any of them.

In the end, I ended up with an extra batch of floor tiles (9 of them as I was printing in 3 by 3 grid). However, this helped me out later on when I wanted to experiment with paints, I used these extra tiles!

Floor and floor:

Fits great! Mostly edge-to-edge except for some places (Top and Right) where there’s a 1 mm gap. But I decided that this was Okay.

Camp and led:

Fits great! Mostly edge-to-edge which is the desired outcome!

Further trials¶

Wall and wall tiles¶

Based on the CAD, I printed out the tiles for the walls.

Here, the basic mechanism is that I would laser cut the ‘walls’ and then fit them into the slots.

Timelapse of assembling Walls and Wall tiles:

Once, they were fitting somewhat decently, I decided to add the campfire tile and give it a test!

With the lights!

Finally, I added the castle tile as well. You can see that my set up is very crude, I simply laser cut a 3 by 3 board and put copper tape on it. I soldered (in the image I have used masking tape but I did eventually solder it) the ends of the tape to jumpers and connected the pin ends of the jumpers to my PCB.

Castle fire wall light

I also did a test by connecting the servo-motor door:

5. Embedded programming for the Light Effects:¶

Dummy board¶

I went ahead and cut out a 1 by 1 board just for easy coding. I applied the copper tape and soldered the ends of it to wires which conencted to my Dev board from Week 8.

Embedded:

Coding:¶

I individually coded each of the four tiles with the respective effects:

1. Castle – Lightning¶

For this, I started with the example code of Fade and altered the speed and time interval, as well as how much the loop repeats to get a good effect.

2. Cauldron – Fire¶

3. Camp – Fire¶

I found two fire codes online. One used a random() in the delay along with a random() in the brightness of the LED, whereas the other one used a for loop.

4. Mortar – Pulsing (Fade in, Fade out)¶

This was the example Fade code altered to Fade in and Fade out over a longer period of time.

Light Effects summary video:¶

I have uplaoded and embedded this video on youtube which shows the final outcome of the LED effects:

Same video linked to youtube

Quick note here, this was the Video I showed in Saturday Open time a week before my presentation. A huge thanks to Adrian, Rico, Miriam, and Pablo for all their help and references. They encouraged me to pay attention to my presentation video. In Rico’s words, “Your project is D&d. Your video has to be D&d styled!” as he proceeded to give funky ideas for the video! Miriam and Adrian and Pablo really encouraged me to paint the tiles and walls. All-in-all, attend the Saturday Open times! It’s fun, informative, and you can really gain value from it.
I will share the references shared by them below (TBA):

Last minute errors¶

Since, I had already made the code for each of them individually, the only thing remaining was to compile them all into one mega code for my FP. I thought this wouldn’t take as long and delayed it to the last day.

Little did I know that I had severely overlooked one flaw in the IDE: I couldn’t have the 4 blocks of PWM run simultaneously because the code used the main loop to fluctutuate between values.

I tried to debug it and researched online however, I found nothing helpful. I tried chatGPT and it gave me a code where PWM was occuring simultaneously. However, the lightning/fire effects was lost.

Since it was already the last day, I let go of it and decided to run the PWM code of the LEDs one after the other.

6. Production Round 2:¶

Wall tile collection:¶

Wall piece collection:¶

Scaled Laser cut boards:¶

Engraved paths for Copper tape:¶

Servo pins on board:¶

I soldered the ends of the pins to the corresponding copper tape track. The three copper tracks connect to the 5V, a Signal Pin, and a GND pin.

I know it’s not an ideal way of connecting. I would have liked to create a small PCB that has the header pins and square pads for the copper tape to run on (similar to the secondary PCB). This way it would be more stable and would look cleaner. However, as I was running out of time, I was unable to do the same and had to settle for this very crude way of connecting.

Copper tape markings:¶

PCB milling:¶

Spiral ONE: PCB 1¶

The first error was that I accidentally applied too much solder so it sort of spread along the surface.

Even after desoldering and removing excess solder, it was Okay in the Multimeter test.

The next error was that the copper pad peeled off. I’m not entirely sure why this happened but I have a feeling I applied too much flux. I resoldered the end of that wire directly to the resistor.

I continued with this PCB as time was running low. Next, I added a small orange LED to make it look like a nose.

But soon after this, the PCB started heating up too much. I did a quick connectivity test using the multimeter and realized that the PCB was shorting. I had tested using the multimeter after milling and soldering as well and it had been alright then. Perhaps, the shorting occured when I tried to resolder the peeled off wire or tried desoldering excess solder.

Problem area:

The final error is that I designed the PCB to be such that you can solder wires on to the pads. These wires would then go and be soldered on to the copper tape. But as soon as I set it up, I realized how absolutely monstrous this looked.

Hideous!

So I decided to scrap this PCB and make another one.

Spiral TWO: PCB 2¶

I designed the PCB 2 to have header pins so it would act a simple break out board for the Xiao RP2040.

I placed the header pins such that it looks like the pumpkin is giving a creepy smile.

But…
Unfortunately, after I milled PCB 2, as I was removing it from the bed of the SRM-20, it broke. The tape I used may have been too strong! T_T

So I had to remill the PCB 2.

All 3 PCBs:

PCB 1, old design:

PCB 2.1, new design:

PCB 2.2:

This time, I took care when removing the PCB. And the milling also turned out really well!

The creepy smile:

I designed and milled a secondary, mini PCB so that the copper tape can run over it and connect to the individual pads. The pads would then have a resistor based on which Copper tape is conencting there and finally a set of header pins to connect via jumpers to the Main PCB.

This was my first step towards modularity as if you need to change the arrangement of the LED tiles, you can simply mill another mini PCB and sodler resistors accordingly. For example, the current mini PCB had 4 resistors for the 4 LED tiles. If I add one more LED tile, then I can simply remill this mini PCB to have 5 resistors. I would have to remill the whole pumpkin PCB if I had gone ahead with the design shown in pumpkin PCB 1.

Milled secondary PCB:

Mini PCB after soldering resistors:

Mini PCB connecting to Cu tape:

PCB case:¶

Spiral ONE:¶

This is how the PCB case meant to fit along with the PCB 1:

However, since I designed and milled a new PCB, the original design of the case would not fit.

As you can see, the whole PCB case has to be shifted slightly to give space to the jumpers to fit.
This left a gap between the mdf board and the pcb case where the wires would be visible.

Hence, I designed and printed a small extension of the case very quickly.

But as you see here, the case extension merely covered the exposed wires. It was connected neither to the main PCB case nor to the board hence it would leave a gap when moved around.

I decided that this was not OK, and redesigned and reprinted a complete top case with the extension:

3d scanning¶

I needed minifigures which would use a magnet at their base so as to activate the reed switch.

I decided that I owuld scan myself so one day in class, I asked my friend Tejas (Link to his website) to use Kiri Engine phone app and scan me holding a sword.

For the sword I used the LED sword made by my college classmate, Ann in the last semester of college (with her permission). Here is a link to more about the sword.

Using Ann’s sword did not work as when I opened the 3D model on Blender, the sword was actually missing. This was because the sword was made of clear acrylic and hence the camera/ Kiri Engine did not capture it!

I tried a second time with a cardboard replica from the same project by Ann. That, though visible, did not produce a good mesh.

So I just decided to extrude some faces to get the sword.

And then I printed them. I also wanted a Witch minifigure and did not have the time to model/scult one, so I went on to Sketchfab and downloaded the STL for an open source model.

“Baba Yaga witch” by matousekfoto

LINK

[All credits to the matousekfoto for the 3D model under the Creative Commons Attribution License. I did not make any changes to the model and printed it for my final project as it is.]

Reed switch tile¶

For the Reed Switch tile, I created a regular floor tile with a slot inside it and split the tile so that I could fit the reed switch inside it. After many attempts of fitting reed switches, it finally worked. Be cautious, they are made of glass and reak very easily!

Painting¶

Posca markers which are water based:

Water based poster colors:

Alcohol markers similar but cheaper to Copics:

This worked well with the LED inside. It did not blockout any light or change the LED’s color:

I decided to initially use these alcohol based markers as they were giving me a decent finish without making the LED tiles too opaque/blocking out the light.

Final Layout¶

Before painting:¶

Hero shots:¶

My Learnings¶

Throughout this project, I learned a lot!

I got to practice and get better at Fusion 360 and Blender, which was really cool.

I also learnt how to declog a 3D printer somewhere along the way.

This was one of my biggest project so far. I’ve never worked with so much volume. So I had to get good planning everything before hand and making sure tasks were getting completed. I think my biggest take away is getting better at making decisions quickly and thoughtfully. And not stressing over things that didn’t work.

It was helpful to focus on what was going well and to find areas of improvement that were actually doable (Triage). I stuck to developing in spirals- testing things at every step and finding the best way forward in that moment.

A huge thanks to both my instructors- Jesal Sir and Pranav Sir, and to Chinmay sir for giving suggestions on Electronics and helping out resolve problems every time the 3D printer stopped working or gave an error.

Overall, I really, really enjoyed this project and had fun throughout the journey even though it was hectic. The project kept me on my toes but I enjoyed every moment of it. Looking at the project once it was completed was one of my happiest moments along with the responses on Presentation day! :D

Design Files¶

Final Code Used

Trial code from chatGPT to make the light effects happen simultanesouly:
GPT trial 1
GPT trial 2

Google drive link to ALL Design files Zipped:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16PLZouDTjsYsIKg0KOOMvpDh0YGZooA0?usp=sharing

contains:
- Blend files of the tiles
- Fusion files of the tiles
- STL files of the CAD for 3d printing
- Illustrator and DXF files for the laser cut board
- PCB Eagle files
- PCB gerber files
- Arduino IDE code files
- LICENSE

NOTE: The zipped mega folder is extremely large too. There are a lot of files which are there in the folder. Reduction of file sizes is work in progress.

Zipped folder size: 600MB
Unzipped fodler size: 900MB