- Printing Technology: FDM
- Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 270 mm
- Printing Speed: 150 mm/s
- XY resolution: ± 0.1 mm
- Layer Height: 0.05 - 0.4 mm
- Nozzle Temperature: Up to 300° C
- Supported Materials: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, PA, WOOD
Week 5
3D Scanning and Printing
test the design rules for your 3D printer(s)
3D Scanning and Printing
- 3D Printing Techonology -
3D printing, also known as additive manufacturing, is like having a mini factory on your desk. Imagine drawing something on your computer, and then, instead of printing it on paper, you bring it to life in three dimensions. It stacks layers of material, usually plastic, but sometimes metal or even chocolate, one on top of the other until you've got a physical object. You can create almost anything, from toys and tools to complex parts for machines or even prosthetic limbs. It's a game-changer because it allows for custom, on-demand production without needing a whole assembly line. Just design, print, and voilà!
Here are the main 3d printing technologies
- Stereolithography (SLA): This is like using a magic light wand to solidify liquid plastic into cool shapes. A UV laser zaps the liquid resin in a tank layer by layer until your object is fully formed. It’s great for detailed models and smooth finishes.
- Selective Laser Sintering (SLS): Imagine spraying a thin layer of powder and then hitting it with a laser to fuse it into a solid piece. That’s SLS. It builds stuff by melting powder together layer by layer. No need for support structures, so you can get really complex.
- Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM): This one’s like a hot glue gun on steroids. It heats up plastic filaments and squirts them out to layer up and make your object. It’s the most common type, super versatile, and great for prototyping and functional parts.
- Digital Light Process (DLP): DLP is similar to SLA but uses a digital light projector to flash a single image of each layer all at once. It’s faster because it cures whole layers instead of drawing them out with a laser.
- Multi Jet Fusion (MJF): MJF spreads out a layer of powder and then sprays it with a binding agent that’s activated by an infrared light. It allows for super fine details and strong parts, perfect for both prototypes and final products.
- PolyJet: This technology is like a high-quality inkjet printer but for 3D printing. It sprays tiny droplets of a photopolymer that are instantly cured by UV light. You can get crazy detail and even mix different materials for varied properties and colors in a single print.
- Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS): DMLS is the metalhead cousin of SLS. It uses metal powder and a laser to build metal parts layer by layer. It’s perfect for high-strength, complex parts and prototypes without the need for molds.
- Electron Beam Melting (EBM): EBM uses—you guessed it—an electron beam to melt metal powder together, layer by layer, in a high-vacuum environment. It’s great for making durable and stress-resistant parts, especially in aerospace and medical industries.
- FabLab Puebla 3D printers -
We have to admit that in FabLab Puebla one of our most sought after thecnologies for rapid prototyping is 3D printing. That's why we have a staggering 27 3D printers in total.
- Ender 3 (14 units): These are the workhorses of the 3D printing world. Popular for their affordability and reliability, Ender 3 printers are great for beginners and pros alike. They're versatile, easy to use, and perfect for a wide range of printing projects.
- Sindoh 3DWOX (5 units): Sindoh printers are known for their user-friendly design and excellent print quality. The 3DWOX models, in particular, are fantastic for educational settings, offering features like enclosed printing areas for safety and consistency in printing.
- Elegoo Mars 3 (1 unit): This is a resin 3D printer, which means it uses UV light to cure liquid resin into solid objects. It's capable of incredibly detailed prints, making it ideal for intricate models and prototypes that require high precision.
- Elegoo Saturn 2 (1 unit): A larger sibling to the Mars, the Saturn 2 also uses resin printing technology but offers a bigger build volume. This allows for larger models or batch printing of smaller items, all with the exquisite detail resin printers are known for.
- Stratasys (1 unit): Stratasys printers are at the forefront of professional 3D printing. They're known for exceptional print quality and the ability to print with a variety of advanced materials. This printer is likely the go-to for high-end prototypes and complex projects.
- ROSTOCK MAX™ V3 (1 unit): This is a delta-style printer, which means it uses three arms to move the print head in all directions. It's known for its speed and efficiency, as well as its tall, cylindrical printing area, making it great for tall prints.
- Anycubic Photon Mono M5S (1 unit): Another resin printer in your arsenal, the Photon Mono M5S is celebrated for its speed and the quality of its prints. It's great for detailed models and prototypes, with the added advantage of monochrome screens for faster curing times.
- Ultimaker 2+ (2 units): Ultimaker printers are renowned for their reliability, ease of use, and excellent print quality. The Ultimaker 2+ models are no exception, offering versatile printing capabilities with a variety of materials, making them perfect for everything from educational projects to professional prototypes.
- Formlabs Form 1 (1 unit): Pioneering the desktop SLA (Stereolithography) scene, the Form 1 brings professional-grade 3D printing into more accessible settings. Known for its precision and ability to create highly detailed prints, this printer is a favorite among designers and engineers for prototypes and final products that need to look and feel top-notch.
- How To Use -
- 3D Printing Materials -
There are various materials that can be used for 3D printing, each with its own characteristics and properties. Below is a cheat sheet of common materials used in 3D printing used in FDM and more importantly available in Puebla and their main differences:
Material | Description | Printing Temperature |
---|---|---|
PLA | PLA is rigid, has good strength, and provides good print quality. It is suitable for a wide range of applications and is ideal for printing decorative objects, prototypes, and parts not subjected to loads or high temperatures. | Bed: 50-60 °C Extruder: 190-220 °C |
ABS | It is a tough and durable plastic with good impact resistance. ABS is more difficult to print than PLA as it requires a higher extrusion temperature and can have warping issues if not using a heated print bed or a closed chamber system. It is suitable for functional parts, such as electronic housings and mechanical parts. | Nozzle: 230°C to 250°C Heated bed: 80°C to 110°C |
PETG | PETG combines the characteristics of PLA and ABS, offering good strength, durability, and ease of printing. It is more flexible than PLA and ABS, and has good chemical resistance. PETG is suitable for a wide variety of applications, including resistant parts, packaging, and functional objects. | Nozzle: 230°C to 250°C Heated bed: 70°C to 80°C |
Nylon | Nylon is a strong and durable material that offers high tensile and impact resistance. Nylon requires a printer with specific features, such as a heated print bed and a closed chamber. It is used in applications requiring strength, such as gears, mechanical parts, and functional prototypes. | Nozzle: 240°C to 260°C Heated bed: 70°C to 100°C |
TPU | An elastic and flexible material used in 3D printing. It is characterized by its ability to deform and return to its original shape repeatedly without damage. TPU is used in a variety of applications where flexibility and impact resistance are required. | Nozzle: 210°C to 230°C Heated bed: 20°C to 60°C |
The following is a guide on case use. Which means that it establishes the advantages, Disadvantages and hardware requirements of FDM materials.(This list includes both materials foun in Puebla and those which could be acquired in case of special needs).
Material | Advantages | Disadvantages | Hardware Requirements |
---|---|---|---|
ABS | -Impact resistant -Wear-resistant -Low cost |
-Difficult to print due to warping and poor bed adhesion | Standard FDM printer, heated enclosure recommended |
ASA | -UV resistant -Impact resistant -Wear-resistant |
-High cost -Dangerous fumes during printing |
Standard FDM printer, heated enclosure recommended |
PP | -Impact resistant -Fatigue resistant -Good surface finish -Good chemical resistance |
-Difficult to print due to warping and poor bed adhesion | May require non-standard bed covers for adhesion |
Nylon | -Excellent mechanical properties -Low friction |
-Absorbs moisture | May require a specialized hot end nozzle |
PLA | -Cheap and easy to print | -Brittle -Degrades in outdoor environments |
Standard FDM printer |
HIPS | -Low weight -Can be dissolved with a solvent |
-High printing temperature | Standard FDM printer, heated enclosure recommended |
PC | -One of the strongest filaments for 3D printers -Transparent |
-Difficult to print -High cost |
FDM printer capable of printing at very high temperatures |
Flexible (made with thermoplastic elastomers) | -Rubber-like behavior | -High cost -Difficult to print |
Direct drive or Bowden extruder required |
PVA | -Dissolves in water | -Can only be used as support material | Standard FDM printer |
PETG | -Excellent mechanical properties -Easier to print than ABS |
-Imperfect layer adhesion | Standard FDM printer |
Wood Filament | -Aesthetically pleasing finish | -Low overall strength -Can clog the nozzle |
Standard FDM printer |
Metal-filled Filaments | -Aesthetically pleasing finish | -Low overall strength | Standard FDM printer with hardened nozzle |
Carbon Fiber Filled | -High strength parts | -Can clog nozzles -High cost |
Standard FDM printer with hardened nozzle |
- Design Rules -
Overhang
Overhangs refer to parts of the model that extend out over an area with no material beneath them.
Printing Angle
The angle at which a feature can be printed without support. Angles up to 45 degrees are often manageable without supports, but this can vary based on the material and printing technology.
Bridging
Bridging refers to spanning a gap between two parts of a print without support beneath. The success of a bridge depends on the material's properties and the printer's capabilities, with shorter spans typically being easier to bridge.
Wall thickness
The minimum thickness of walls that can be successfully printed, impacting the object's durability and structural integrity. Thin walls may not print well, while very thick walls can waste material and time.
Dimensions
Accurate dimensions are crucial, especially for functional parts that must fit together. 3D printing can introduce variances due to material shrinkage or printer calibration issues.
Anisotropy
3D printed objects can have varying strengths in different directions due to layer-by-layer construction. This must be considered in the design phase, especially for mechanical parts under stress.
Surface Finish
The quality of the print's exterior, which can range from rough to smooth. Surface finish is influenced by the printer's resolution, the material, and post-processing techniques like sanding or chemical smoothing.
Clearence
Clearance involves the space between the support structures and the actual part being printed. Adequate clearance ensures supports can be removed easily without damaging the print, typically around 0.2mm to 0.5mm depending on the material and print resolution.
- Support -
- Infill -
The inside of a 3D print is called infill, and it can be adjusted in terms of density 0% is hollow while 100% is solid. The main determining factor for infill percentage is the type of application for which the part is destined to be used. Prototypes and hobbyist creations rarely need more than 20% infill. Functional parts that will be exposed to mechanical stress loads will typically require infill percentages of 50% or more.
Infill pattern is the structure and shape of the material inside of a part. Ranging from simple lines to more complex geometric shapes, infill patterns can affect a parts strength, weight, print time, and even flexibility. As we are using Cura as slicing software, we have available, 14 types of infill
Choosing an infill pattern is important, but there’s more to it than that. One commonly overlooked setting with infill is the infill line direction. This is set at 45° by default so that both the X and Y motors work together to print infill at maximum speed. However, it may be advantageous to orient the infill at a different angle in order to provide maximum strength or flexibility to the part, especially if its walls are diagonally aligned.
Finally you can look at more information on 3d Printing on the following link: Link