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4. Computer controlled cutting

This week we worked on characterising our laser cutters. We looked at the following topics:

  • Focus
  • Power
  • Speed
  • Kerf
  • Joint Types & Clearance

Focus

When you first turn on a laser the first step is to focus the laser on the top surface of the material you are planning to cut or engrave. Here are images showing the positioning of the focus tools.

Speedy 300: speedy 300

Rayjet: Rayjet 50

There are cases where you would offset the focus point in the print settings.

Material Thickness

With the focussing tool you end up focusing on the top surface of the material.

On the whole this is fine, however if the material is getting quite thick, 6-10mm, you can adjust the focus so that it is in the center of the material. This allows for a deeper cut as the laser loses power as it loses focus.

You can see the offset focus collum in the material settings. Machine software focus adjust

It can help with reducing the slat you can sometimes see on thick laser cuts. Most noticible in foams. This is because when it is focussed in the center you can lower the power of the laser meaning it will take away less material my accident. Foam slant

Engrave Speed

It is also useful to reduce engrave times. You can print the image with a dither pattern then unfocus the laser slightly so that the dither is blurred, fills in nay gaps and it looks normal again.

christmas decorations dithered

Power & Speed

You can adjust the power from 1-100% to vary the intensity of the laser beam. - Lower power - Shallower cut & lighter engrave - Higher power - Deaper cut & darker engrave

You can adjust the speed from 1-100% to vary the speed at which the laser head moves. - Lower velocity - Deaper cut & darker engrave - Higher velocity - Shallower cut & lighter engrave

We created a grid which demonstrates you can edit either values and achieve similar results. Engraving

Power Speed comparison

For example: High power + High velocity = Low power + Low velocity

In genral you want to keep the velocity as high as possible so that jobs are fast to complete.

Kerf

Kerf is the material removed where the laser beam passes. This means a piece that was designed with perfect joints would end up being loose.

I designed a test piece in fusion360 which featured slots that varied in size so we could test how much we need to account for to remove the effect of the kerf. Kerf desing File Download

I then cut it on the Rayjet 50. Here is the result: Kerf result

We determined the kerf of our lasers was 0.1mm.

Joint Types and Clearance

As lasers are two dimenti0nal machines you need to build in joints in order to create a 3D object. There are many ways to join parts together.

Niel shared with the class a image of a few different joint types. Joint examples

I then redesigned these in fusion360 so that I could adjust material thicknesses and kerf amounts. Redesigned joints Joints Download

My first versions did not work properly as I had added twice as much kerf than needed on most sides. When the laser goes past a edge it takes off half the kurf of the laser as only one side of the laser is cutting into the actual piece, the other side is cutting into waste most of the time.

Second attempt

Second attampt was more sucessful. Six out of the eight worked. alt text

Pressfit and Chamfer

pressfit chamfer They are both quite similar. Both over lap to form the joint. The chamfer just allows for easier connecting as the slope guides the two pieces together.

Snap

Snap The snap joint is an example where the second attempt didnt work. I susspect this is more of an issue with the material choice. The MDF 6mm is not very flexable so even with small bump sizes it didnt bend enough to go through the hole.

This is a theme for nearly all the flex joints.

Snap-fit

alt text This joint had even less chance of working as the wall on either side of the opening is too wide.

Max’s attempt at snap fit joints were more successful. Thin snap fit

For his individual project he designed a construction kit that relied on them. snap fit kit

Flexture

alt text As the walls were thinner it allowed for more flex. This was the only one that worked out of my flexture joints.

Pinned

alt text

This joint slid well together then could be fastened together with a diagonal pin. I quite liked how this joint looked. May attempt to use again the the future.

Wedge

alt text The parts slid together then gets fastened by a wedge.

alt text

I can see how this would be useful for 90 degree joints.

Finger Joints

alt text This was the main confusion for the kerf but the second attempt was better with the fingers laying flush. alt text 90 degree angle.

alt text Flat.