PORTABLE 3D PRINTER-SCANNER


STEP 5: 3D SCANNING AND PRINTING

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OBJECTIVE

- Scan and object using a 3D Sense Scanner
- Design and print a not substractive object

PROCEDURE

SCANNING

1. I entered to this link: http://cubify.com/products/sense, logged in, clicked on "Activitate" and downloaded and executed the 3D Sense software


ACTIVATE


2. I clicked on Object and then on Small Object. I was not able to get a descent picture in the desk I was sitting in, so I moved toa darker place next to the Shopbot.

OBJECT

SMALLOBJECT

4. In my First and Second try, I scanned the mouse and the entire surface. I  Think this accident was due to me being to near from the mouse.

FIRSTTRY

SECONDTRY

5. In my Third try, I was able to scan just the computer mouse, though I had some white spots.

THIRDTRY


6. As a joke, I scanned the surface; however, it was clearly recognized without white spots.

FOURTHTRY

7. I repeated the same process for scanning a person and this was the first result:

FIFTHTRY



8. I did not take screenshots of my following results, because. I trusted that just by clicking "Save" I will be able to open my scanned images again.
9. I later realized, that I couldn't open my images because they were in ply format.
10. I opened my images in Rhinoceros and then exported them to Meshlab, but the result was not what I expected (It was gray, instead of multicolor)

BASE

MOUSE

11. I was not able to open my second human scanning (maybe, because of the size), so I'm just showing the image in Rhinoceros.

OMAR2

3D PRINTING

1. I wrote to Dglass3D, but they didn't answer. I wrote to ATOM, which is an opensource 3D printing company in Egypt and asked them for the extruder design. I tried to print it, but the machine stopped working
HOME
PRINT1
PRINT2
PRINT3
FELIXPRINTER

5. I made a "safety" design for the 3D Print assignment
CYLINDER

7. I made a 45 degrees cellphone case for creating a more complex figure.
8. I exported the archives in .stl format and opened them in the Makerbot software
9. I moved the object using the 3 vertical buttons in the left.
10. Once opened in the Makerbot software, I exported the files to a SD card using this parameters:

Right: MakerBotPLA
Raft: Off
Supports. Right Extruder

Temperature:
Left Extruder: 210 °C
Right Extruder: 210 °C

Export!


11. Put the SD card in the Makerbot
12. Click the Centered Button
13. This will appear:

Replicator 2X
->Build from SD (Click here)
Preheat
Utilities

14. With the UP and DOWN arrows choose the archive you want
15. If you want to cancel the operation, clickeas in the left arrow
16. This will appear:
Pause
->Cancel build (Click here)
Waiting for Homing
Waiting for Homing


17. It didn't print well, because the PLA tangled. I could not examine the printing carefully, because the Fab Lab closed at 6:00 p.m. and the 3D Printer was going to finish working by 8:00.

TROUBLE
CYLINDERANDCELLPHONE

18. Here is my idw. file that evidences my design in Inventor, Here is my .stl file opened in MakerBot software and Here is my .thing file.

CONCLUSIONS

1. Printing a safety or regular design instead of a reach design does not vary much on time investment.
2. You will feel much more satisfied if you attempt your reach design.
3. 3D Sense does not work as well as it is advertized.
4. Makerbot is really hard to calibrate and does not always paste the plastic efficiently.
5. It is not feasible to print a diagonal structure like my cellphone case.
6. You need to calibrate the machine everytime you use it.
7. You need to stay while the machine processes the PLA; otherwise it may be working in the air; thus, getting damaged.