Loes Bogers

FabAcademy 2015

Week 03 addition: Snapfit Kit Inkscape Tutorial

For those at Fablab de Waag: fablab modules don't work for us, we use the printer driver. You have to create clean outline designs.

For sure this is NOT tutorial to do it neatly and have an all pro workflow. But if you need to get shit done quickly and want to learn to make something NOW with zero skills, here you go. I don't think this is the most efficient way to use cloning...but now you've seen it once. Check out the Symbols feature if you work in Illustrator

If you test a few different widths for your cutouts beforehand, doing parametric design is less pressing I guess (I hope). If you know what sizing your material needs, you can just go ahead and design the rest with that size.

I made a first test doing 2 pairs of squares: Each side of the square had a different width, ranging from 2.5 to 2.8mm for my 3mm thick cardboard. The first set had a deeper cutout, the second one was shallower. I did this to see which made the nicest fit for the material. I think it's handy to do that (I didn't explain it in the tutorial but you'll figure it out).

Get started with settings

open new file
view > tick grid
file > document properties....
* page > set all to mm
* grids > set grid units to mm AND spacing x and y to 1

draw a rectangle

> Object > Fill and Stroke
stroke = 0
fill = black (or other)

draw another rectangle on top

you can specify exactly the size in the menu bar on top, I want a very thin rectangle
stroke = 0
fill = other color, eg red

Center the objects by selecting them

> object > align and distribute

Draw another rectangle

> Rotate it at 45 degrees
> Object > Transform > rotate > 45 > apply
> Drag it onto your shapes where you want it. Center if necessary

Select the two red shapes

> Object > Union
> they're now one shape

Make clones of your red shape

> Edit > Clone > create clone
> Mirror or rotate it so it fits to the right position where you want the other cutouts.
> Center and align as needed
> Repeat this for all the cutouts in your object
> If you change the clone you change all instances of it

Now make your shape ready for lasering:

Select each red shape and then the black shape
> Path > Difference
> Now you have made an actual cutout
> Repeat this for each red shape until they're all gone

Add a note to your cut

Add some text to signify the measurements so you can refer to them later after you cut your test shapes
Make sure:
> stroke = 0
> fill = white
> Then also select this shape and the black shape (hold shift and click)
> Path > difference > now it's one shape with the text cutout

Change fill to stroke for outlines

> Select your shape
> Object > Fill and Stroke
> Stroke = 0.001 mm (so the lasercutter can read it)
> Fill = none

Your shape will not be visible because 0.001mm is that thin. To make it appear, activate the outline view (only shows outlines of the shapes) > View > Display mode > Outline (all fills and strokes will be invisible

Clean up your file

Hit select all to check whether you have any vagabond shapes hanging around. Make sure there's nothing but the actual shapes you want to cut. (See pic, that rectangle needs to goooooo).

That's it! Ready to roll

You can go ahead and lasercut it out.

Testcut with the lasercutter

use illustratortemplate on machine (96x46cm)
check if the sizes are the same as in your document
copy paste your shapes to the template
lines thicker than 0.003mm will be engraved, not cut
make sure colors are pure RGB (black =00000, red =255,0,0) etc
greyscale for grading is nice
black (because greyscale) = for engraved elements
red/green/blue = cutting elements
position image to x,y 0,0
>file>print
printer name = Spirit GE
placement: choose to left corner

Settings for the Laser Engraver

>Setup > Preferences

OPTIONS:
> mode: B/W = to engrave OR cut
> mode: color scale = engrave AND cut
> mode: stamp mode = for stamps
> mode: 3D = good for grading sometimes

DPI
wood/cardboard= 500, acrylic = higher

PEN
set power & speed for each color
> 99% set speed to 100, vary with the power
> for 3 mm cardboard speed/power of 7/100 to engrave and 80/100 to cut will be good start.
select for each:
> vector on/off (lines)
> raster on/off (fills)

ADVANCED
position mode = relative
direction = top to bottom
vector function = optimization sorting (=faster)
use clustering for engraving

PAPER
tick: extend (if your file uses entire size of laser bed

PRINT IT!

No wait...Send a testfile first

eg. a 1x1 cm square, use template file
see styles_delete layer for example
testrun on the bottom right of the laser bed because the mirrors make the leaser on weaker at that end
put your shapes on the top left in the template file in illustrator however
press print (resend it if it doesn't come through)

On the Machine

01=number of the job (it saves them)
if there's a time, it means you've cut the job before
move head manually or with arrows
manual focus: use pen, move bed up/down until it barely hits the pen. The red marker should be sharp, small and clean
turn on ventilation
press start (with open lid for an airrun
check results
PAUZE to pauze, F1 to resume during process
run your original file
never leave the machine
hoove out the laserbed afterwards!

Cleaning the machine

If it doesn't run smoothly or doesn't run with settings that usually work fine, it's probably time to clean. You can find materials in the bottom drawer

open front of laser head
note directions of lens and mirrors
also clean mirrors on the side
use cottontip and lenscleaner for lens, use paper for mirrors
don't forget to clean the top left mirror (unscrew on the side)
grease running axis of laser w paper and grease, then wipe off

This is my workfile for the testcut (.svg).