Reading user manual is a good starting point to discover Roland SRM-20 mill.
As 3D printers, mini-mills have "limitations". A 3D printer does know there is no filament any more in the roll and doesn't know you are trying to print in the air (without support). A mini-mill does know you are milling.. the mini-mill (clearly a mchine commiting suicide !) ... nor when you go fast enough to break the tools and/or/table and/or machine it self. Obviously, a mini-mill does not known you are milling your hands or fingers ! I appreciate the fact that SRM-20 is a closed area with a plexy on the front. If you open it, the motor will stop.
A 1/64 endmill is small and, even with the lowest position, the spindle cannot reach the PCB blank on the table. You need some extra spacers. Anyway, adding some spacer is a good idea if you don't want to break the endmill and/or to scratch your table. I prepared a set of MDF spacers. Here is how it looks like:
Even a very small error can have big consequences. The mill removes a very thin layer of copper. If it is not enough, your traces will create shorts. If it is to deep, you could cut your PCB. Leveling is tedious but usefull. Check user manual for the procedure.
The machine it self has a "hardware" zero position (x,y and z) but your job a one as well. The 0 level from the Z axis point of view depends on sacrificial boards and material thikness. The x,y depends on where the PCB blank is installed and also depends on your design